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(L) We had booked a tour with Cristina De Angelis for a day trip to Civita di Bagnoregio so had a pretty lazy start to the day, only leaving at around 10.15 to head off to her shop in the Piazza, just to the side of the Duomo. You can't really miss her shop, she has big blue signs out the front with different tours listed and there are numerous cats all sitting on and around the stairs.
We had gone to the Information office, also in the square but opposite the front of the Duomo, and asked about taking a tour to Civita Bagnoregio but the woman in there had told us "no, no tour, you take bus".... there is a public bus that leaves from Ex Caserma Piave which no doubt is a lot cheaper however it leaves at 12.45 and the last bus back is at 5.25 with goodness knows how many stops along the way.
Cristina is a trained guide with 20 years experience and is actually an official guide for the Basilica in Rome so she definitely knows what she's talking about. She is extremely knowledgeable with a degree in Religious Arts History and currently also studying Christian History. She speaks very good English (along with French and is now studying Spanish!!) and the entire time was giving us all sorts of interesting facts and the history about what we were seeing and places we were going. Entry into Civita was paid for us, she also insisted on buying us a coffee whilst up in the city and once we left there she popped into a Bakery and gifted us with a traditional pastry of the area... all homemade, even the jam on it! Cost for up to 3 people is €100 and we felt it was money well spent. There was even a stop for a spectacular view of Orvieto from across the valley.
I won't go into the history of Civita but needless to say it is a long and interesting one going back to the Etruscans in the 12th century!! Does that not just blow your mind.... To think it's still standing after all this time???
After Civita we drove over to Bolsena for a quick look at the lake and Cristina showed us The Church of Saint Christina, the church where the Eucharistic miracle of Bolsena happened.... this was the inspiration for the Feast of Corpus Christi. I won't copy and paste information on it but it's worth googling if you're interested!
Cristina dropped us off just near our apartment at 1.30 so we came back and warmed up some of the yummy soup Deb had made last night. We sat around for an hour or so before heading out to find our way back to the car parking garage.... SUCCESS!!! We have now plotted our course for walking down to pick up the car and driving into and out of town.... phew!!! Now, on Sunday when we head off to Bagni Di Lucca, we just have to work out where to go once outside the city walls... cue Jane!!
We did stop briefly in our wanderings, at our hosts food and wine shop.. more by accident than design, and had a glass of wine and a fabulous focaccia with tomato, olive oil and fresh fresh mozzarella - bellissima!! It does look like a bit of an exclusive shop and we were sure it would come at an exorbitant price but the bill was only €11. While we were sitting outside we were constantly bombarded with what we assume are refugees (only because when we'd seen some in Bolsena Cristina had remarked what a terrible problem they are having with them and that they get paid €35 a day each so don't give them money). They are so persistent but every so friendly that you do feel guilty refusing them but it's just not possible to give to everyone and if, as Cristina says, they are already being taken care of then it's not really necessary. I guess you can give them kudos for getting out and trying to make a living and I wouldn't mind being approached if they would only take "NO" for an answer.
Home again before dark for a quiet night - making a nice fresh veggies and gnocchi stirfry.
One more full day to wander around Orvieto.
(D) Liane has described our day in full, I only have to add that I actually found the walkway from Bagnoregio over to the Civita old town area very, very high. It's quite a narrow walkway, built in 1964 I think Christina said, set on high pillars/poles and it spans the gully from one place to the other. It didn't help that this was the time Christina chose to tell us about how the Civita is crumbling away and of the last major earthquake and the damage it did..... admittedly is was in the 1700's but still! There are apparently now only 6 people actually living there now, most live in Bagnoregio and come over to run their shops etc during the day, or just keep their home at Civita as a holiday one. The excursion with Christina was thoroughly personal and highly enjoyable - she is an extremely warm and generous host and I would thoroughly recommend her tour.
- comments
Rodd Cristina sounded like she made the day for you both, great to have such a knowledgeable guide. Reminded me of the Great Apple Greeter guide we had in New York!
Rodd OMG........
Rodd This is just amazing...........................WOW
Rodd Looks so high!!!
Rodd Yeah right.....coffee lol
Debbie Unbelievable views
Debbie So many beautiful places and views.