We had heard the swifts put on a display in the morning when they make their way from their nesting place, usually around 6, so we were up and at our vantage point at around 5.45 waiting in anticipation. We waited for what felt like ages, and aside from the odd swift or two, we saw nothing. We were quite disappointed, both from getting up so early, and because these swifts just hadn't lived up to their reputation. After breakfast Soldier, David and K took us ou...

The third day of our tour we didn't have to start out too early, as Soldier informed us the Falls can be quite obscured in the mornings by mist. Despite that we were still awake by around 6 as the sun had come up, setting of a chorus of jungle creatures. We had some scrambled eggs and flying saucers (fried bread that we really enjoyed!) for breakfast and watched some birds in the trees before setting off up the "Oh My God" hill. Soldier told us there were 5 "Oh ...

At 7 when we emerged from our room, our guide Soldier was waiting for us, as well as his son David and nephew whose name we can't recall/never really worked out, but started with K. We grabbed some breakfast to take with us and the 5 of us piled into a taxi that took us to Pamela Landing, about an hour past Mahdia on the banks of the Potaro River. There, we all got into a small dinghy and started making our way up the river. As we went we passed a few small mini...

The first day of our overland trek to Kaieteur Falls started early. We were asked to be ready at 6.30, though Oma didn't arrive to pick us up until 7. She then dropped us off for our bus, throwing at us envelopes of cash for our guide, the boat, the boat captain, dinner and our hotel that night. We were taking the local transportation to Mahdia, a crowded van. Oma said she got us 3 seats so we would be more comfortable, though given we had 3 big boxes of food, ...

We had chosen to stay at the cheapest guesthouse we could find in Georgetown, but it was actually really nice inside and reasonably close to everything. Outside of the guesthouse wasn't as nice. The city of Georgetown is tired and dirty. As it actually sits below sea level, Dutch built canals run though it, though the water in them is stagnant and full of garbage, though amazingly fish survive in them. The streets are tarred, though finding a street with a foot...