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What a superb day! One never knows what the day might hold! Oh and I do love a pleasant surprise.
Up until we started planning this adventure and researching significant sites to visit and experience, I don't recall ever thinking too much about Hadrian's Wall. In fact, I didn't know if it was built to keep the Romans out or to keep the Romans' in and others out. I've never been very enthusiastic for visiting ruins. I find them dull, dirty, vacant and a bit boring. A fair amount of imagination is required to picture what life might have been like when a ruin site was young. Still, we thought visiting the famous historic place would be a good idea.
This wall runs a length of about 75 miles, completely across northern England. It was built, in fact, by Emperor Hadrian beginning in year 122 AD to defend and to also mark the northern most extent of the Roman Empire in Britain, and it did so nearly 300 years. It was built exclusively native stone, iron and timber. It had a fort every five miles. Eight hundred Roman soldiers once lived in the Housesteads fort we saw at Hexham. Hadrian's wall is about 16-20 feet tall and about 9 feet wide. Each fort had a primary plaza, a granary, latrine, barracks and a grand home for the commanding officer, his family and his slaves. Housesteads is among the most well-preserved of the fort ruins and sits atop a huge hill that provides a 360-degree view of lands as far as the eye can see. Just to lay a hand on something built by men nearly 2000 years ago is an eerie but sobbering experience. The view from the fort ruins was indescribable. The vastness of the land, its color and stunning beauty was just amazing. It stimulates a feeling of great peace and makes one feel very small. We hiked along several sections of the wall. We hiked the remains of Chesters Bridge over the River North Tyne near the town of Chollerford. The hike there is a wildflower and tree-lined path between beautiful green grassy hills and valleys of sheep. Although they are a little stinky, I have fallen love with the lambs. They are cute and curious little animals!
We drove on to Hexham and also hiked up to the Housesteads fort and walked atop a portion of the wall there where walking on the wall is allowed. Visitors are welcome to walk beside wall for its entire length but not on it. Backpackers walk the entire way in about four days. We saw many couples, groups and singles making the trek today.
I just cannot say enough about the spectacular views and what a beautiful country this is. I see now how pastoral poets became enchanted and inspired to write about the peaceful, idealized country life that can be imagined here.
At the end of the day, we wanted traditional English Sunday Roast we had heard about We are leaving England on Tuesday so today was our last chance to experience it. We asked for recommendations from folks we met and checked Trip Advisor. We settled on The Miners Arms. The first Miners Arms we found was just a pub. No food but the handful of men having their pints there all joined in to tell us, all at the same time, how to reach the other Miners Arms. What a nice bunch of happy men!!! Well we found the second Miners Arms but they had run out of roast and had closed their kitchen. They were only selling drink. Dang! By then we were tired and ravenous. We thought we'd just head back to Lanchester and if we found nothing else, we'd have Italian again -- we loved our meals last night. We were only about five miles from there when we passed The Jolly Drover. It had a crowd so we turned around to give it a try. You know, some things just seem to work for a reason. The Jolly Drover was great. The food was fresh, prepared well, delicious and a real value—lot of good food for the money. The roast included beef, turkey and ham (might have been uncured ham), fresh vegetables and Yorkshire pudding. Moreover, the chef and the man carving the choice of roasts, were so nice. We took the carver's picture. The chef came out to give us extra pork cracklings and to advise us the very best things we should see before we leave the area. Our waiter took special care of us and even told us how their Sticky Toffee Pudding is made. It came with a side of piping hot custard to pour on top. I'm adding this dessert to my list of dishes to make when we are home again. It was deadly delicious! The entire staff waved us farewell as we left.
I have said this before but it is worth repeating, we seem to always have amazing, friendly and happy experiences with people we meet wherever we travel. It is a wonderful gift!
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