Magnifico! The Inca Trail was amazing. We were treated like royalty -18 porters and guides for 8 of us, running past us up the slopes with 25kg on their backs to set up the dining tent before we arrived. Table clothes, napkins, we had it all! Well almost, the toilets were so grim some bared their bums in the open air, and at the end of 4 days half a bucket of water to wash in took it's toll!! Although other groups struggled, ours galloped along without a whinge and enjoyed every minute. Ed struggled without cerveza for 4 days ás this has been in constant supply for the last 3 months! He claimed his shakes were due to the altitude!! We managed to fight back the tears when we reached Machu pichu - the most amazing sight we've ever cast our eyes on. However there were a few tourists blubbing down their mobile phones to friends and family at the golden gate! Now we're back in civilisation (????) in Cusco - not the greatest place in the world to go shopping for 30th birthday pressies - lets hope Ed's sense of humour is shining through on Sunday - (not sure how he'll respond to an alpaca balaclava and the best of andean panpipe music). He had a range of choice's for where to spend the day and he's chosen to cycle down the world's most dangerous road in Bolivia (.......not sure he's looking forward to his 30's I've tried to reassure him he's not receding any further). Anyway we'll fit in some family phone calls on the big day. Happy birthday Marilyn Lots of love Ed and Ruth