Today I got up early about 5:30am when all the others in GHQ were stirring and going off to work/lessons etc. There was still some surf around, so Dave and I decided to go off for a bit of an explore. We intended to go as surf Shelly's, but in the end the wind would have been killing it, so we surfed Emerald instead. It was about 3ft with occasionally bigger sets, and I had an ok surf. I had one really good left which made it worth it. It was absolutely freezing...

This morning lots of people had a bit of a lay in, and got up about 8:30am just before breakfast finished. Charlie and Dan then had lessons and Dave was off collecting a tour group, so I went off by myself and hoped to surf Mullaway. It was probably 3ft with some bigger sets, but it was crazy stormy. I had 1 good one, but then was getting smashed by so much whitewater, I got out 10 minutes later. Hopping back in the car I went round to Mulawarra and surfed the so...

When I got up today I was a little hungover again, but there was some surf so I went out after breakfast with a big group of people. It was probably half the size of the day before, much more choppy and all together pretty awful. I had also got some wetsuit rash under my arms after over 6 hours in the water yesterday, so I only strayed out for about 45 minutes then came in. I didn't do much else before lunch, just the standard chilling out and chatting to those n...

After having a couple too many beers last night, not sleeping much and waking up at 6am to go surfing, I felt a little rough. The swell had well and truly arrived though - it was 3/4ft out the front and the wind had dropped a lot. I went out for about 2 hours first thing, and it was ok but not brilliant. There seemed to be good ones coming through, but I just couldn't get myself in the right place at the right time. Despite having a pretty poor surf I loved bei...

So today was my first full day back at Spot X. Every body still follows the same old up at 6am for breakfast, then going surfing routine. The big swell which was predicted started to show its self this arvo. It was flat as a pancake all morning, but by the mid afternoon it was 2ft. The only problem was the wind - it was crazy strong. As there was zero chance of going for a surf, I just cruised around the camp and chilled like everyone else. Plus it wasn't very w...