I had the afternoon shift at work again today, so was able to have a bit of a lay in again. I got up at 8:30am as usual, got breakfast and chatted to Tom and Rick. I went for a surf at 9:15am, which turned out to be the best surf I had for a while. I was in the water for about 2.5 hours, and although it was only about 3-4ft and clean for an hour, it was well worth it. Unfortunately having not surfed good waves for what felt like forever, I was a bit rusty. I got...

Well, I forgot to write yesterday's blog, but I don't think anything overly interesting happened, so I am going to miss it and do today's instead. Unfortunately yet again, nothing overly interesting happened. The swell was obviously just a big joke as we Havnt seen any surf improvement, it's still 1/2ft max and only good to mess around on a foamie. I worked from 6am-12 today which made a nice change from all the afternoons I have been doing. It was another beau...

I'm writing a day late, yet again. Its so easy to miss days when working. Yesterday the 'swell' was meant to arrive - a 14ft and 13 seconds dead southerly swell. It was to turn out that it was just going to cruise straight past further out at sea, and not hit out easterly facing beaches, which sucks! I went for a surf at about 9am. The conditions were 1-2ft max sets breaking relatively well, with a nice offshore wind. I had a lot of fun, as I hadnt been able to...

My body seems to have a natural alarm clock waking me up at 8:30am all the time - once again I got up at that time again this morning. Turns out one of the grommies got too drunk playing drinking games with the clients last night, and ended up kissing a girl right in front of the boss so that made for interesting talk over breakfast this morning.. My foot still looks like it has been blown up by a bike pump this morning, so im hoping it will go down soon..! On...

Writing this a day late again, but have no excuse really! Yesterday was meant to be my day off, but because I have 2/3 days off ill in the end I had to cover half of someone else's shift, but it didn't matter. I got up 8:30am and had some breakfast etc. I had all good intentions of going for a surf, to get down the beach and find there were literally no waves - the ocean was more like a pond. Instead of going for a surf I spent the morning chilling out on the ...