Samarkand is probably one of the most famous and well known cities of the old Silk Road.  It is also home to some of the most exceptional mosques and madrassahs in the world.  The most well known is Registan Square. We arrive in the late afternoon and after checking into our hotel we head to the Gur-Emir mausoleum, the burial place of Tamerlane, a 14th century ruler/tyrant. Built by one of his sons it is a stunning structure, inside and out.   Following dinner at a very upmarket restaurant we head to the floodlit Registan Square.  Words and pictures cannot do this justice.  The 3 madrassahs occupy 3 sides of the square and they are simply magnificent.  Allegedly this suare was an influence for the great square if Esfahan in Iran and also the Taj Mahal.  The sheer size and beauty are amazing. It's  a very balmy evening and their are los of local families enjoying the evening and the spectacle before them. A few decide to walk home from here.  We pass the Gur-Emir mausoleum, under floodlights it takes on a new dimension from when we visited just a few hours earlier.  The city has a very relaxed feel to it and once again the local Uzbeks are friendly and welcoming.  The following day we decide to break from the main group and do our own exploring.  First stop Registan Square again.  By daylight, whilst still an mazing sight, it doesn't  seem to have the same magic as the previous evening.  Behind what looks likeva secret door in a shop we find a spiral stair case to the 2nd floor balcony and a little coffee shop.  The coffee is good and it is so peaceful sitting there watching the activity in the courtard below. A litte further along the balcony we discover a craftsman making mosaic tiles.  With his stilting English the explained the process from designing each piece, applying glaze, firing thm andthen joining them together using a plaster base to hold it all together.  Three of us made a purchase.  To purchase a keepsake from the person who made it always has a special feel to it. The Bbi Khanum mosque has to rank up there as one of the biggest I have seen.  Our day ended with a somewhat unexpected thrill.  From our hotel terrace we watched as a hot air balloon was assembled and inflated in the park across the road. A few equiries and we determined it was US $20 each and they could take 4 people.  It was a balloon flight with a difference.  Although tethered to the ground, from around a 100 feet in the air the view of the city at night was stunning.  Samarkand had provded some amazing sights nd experiences and we all agreed another few days here would be well spent.  However tomorrow it was time to head  south towards the Afghanistan border.