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Up at 6 but served a hot cup of tea in our tent by the kitchen boys. Very civilised! Smithy our guide pointed out Puka Kassa Pass, 4700m, and our first objective. To say I felt a little daunted would be a bloody understatement. It meant another vertical climb of 750m before lunch. We set off and were making good pace. Smithy had an innate sense about how we were handling the going and called for rest stops at just the right moment. Sometimes all we needed was a minute or two to catch our breath and we were ready to head off again. We were overtaken by the kitchen crew and their pack horses. They had to get to the lunch spot, set up and have our lunch ready by the time we arrived. We watched them as they turned into small dots making their way up the pass. And it seemed that in no time at all we had reached the top. Another breath taking spot. The views of snow covered peaks and glaciers were spectacular. This called for another celebration of rum shots all round. Just what we needed before we started the steep, slippery descent! Lunch was by a small river and shared with a flock of sheep and alpacas. That people live and farm in such remote areas is quite unbelievable. Again the rest of today was mainly downhill until we reached our camp at about 4000m located in a small village. The disused school house was tonight's kitchen and dining room. It got cold very quickly and it was clear we were going to be in for a cold night. At some stage during the night I woke up shivering and was almost wearing as many clothes inside my sleeping bag as I do during the day.
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