Get the train at 21.47 to Hoi An which is roughly 500km from Nha Trang. Our agent could only get us two 'hard sleeper' berths which meant our mattresses were thin to say the least, so, we ended up sleeping on top of the cover they provided for extra padding. The berth has 6 mattresses in it so you have no idea who you will share with. A chap gets in and within five minutes is asleep. That's great we think a quiet night, but 1 minute later the snoring champion of Vietnam starts.. ooh no Anyway David talks loudly to "accidently" raise him from his zzzz's and it seems to do the trick. The train was rather basic compared to the SE2 we took from HCMC. Arrive at Danang train station after a bumpy journey at 08.30 and jump in a people carrier to Hoi An a speedy 30km away. Along the way we pass long stretches of beach between the Marble Mountains and the South China Sea. This area was infamously used for R&R for the American GI's ( Me love u long time) and became known by the servicemen as China Beach.

I said fast, by 09.10 we had checked into the Green Life Homestay a fab base with tranquil views over paddy fields, watching locals in traditional conical hats tending the fields; a world away on your balcony.
We have both really looked forward to our new home the historic town of Hoi An which was an important trading port from the 16th century. Attracting traders from China, Japan, and Europe, Hoi An acquired a rich cultural heritage and is now a UNESCO world heritage site. Hoi An features the long, narrow, tube houses, Chinese Pagodas and ornate community halls, family shrines and the Japanese Covered Bridge. There is also a small French colonial quarter full of atmosphere day and night.

Within Hoi An's old quarter there is a mosaic of cultures and a sense of timelessness. In addition to the many shops, monuments and houses, this area has banned vehicles creating a laid -back ambience (no cars or motorbikes; FAB!)

After wandering around the town and taking in the sights we cycle to beautiful Cua Dai Beach 4km away passing paddy fields, temples and the odd buffalo. One walked out in front of us as we crossed a narrow bridge and we had to swerve to miss riding into it (scary).

That evening we had a lovely dinner overlooking the Thu Bon River in the old town and managed to avoid booking a trip to Mr Quong's( the proprietor's) rustic homestay even though he produced copious amounts of written evidence by other tourists of how fantastic the experience would be.

Hoi An is such a gem and we are glad we booked 4 nights here; we really feel quite at home and are in need of a base for a few days after so much travelling.

Up early and off to visit old town houses, temples and family chapels steeped in history and tradition. We also cross the famous Japanese Bridge dating back to the 16th C. There were a number of stops to atmospheric watering holes along the way and Suzanne tried their local speciality for lunch 'Cao Lau' which is doughy flat noodles combined with croutons, bean sprouts and greens and topped off with pork slices and a bit of chilli (delicious).

Having spent an hour or so in a very friendly travel agent's we have our flights booked for Phu Quoc Island and HCMC as well as our transfers to the airport from Hoi An on the 26th - Job done - chill out time ahead.

We have found Vietnamese food delicious - such delicate flavours, a lot of green leaves and herbs such as mint and coriander - all in all it seems delicious and very healthy. Our evening meal is at a restaurant which is run by a US charity which funds Vietnamese street children to learn how to cook and wait Vietnamese food to a very high standard thus giving them a trade for life. We tried the 'white rose' (shrimp encased in rice paper and steamed) is a Hoi An speciality and delicious.

Up early -ish and off for a bicycle ride through the surrounding countryside after a breakfast of Vietnamese vegetarian rice pancakes, sprig rolls, coffee and GARLIC BREAD!!!!!!!. We cycle down the tiny dirt tracks that the farmers use passing water buffalo and farmers tending their paddy fields and finally reach Cu Dai Beach for a breather. After a short beach stop we cycle back as it's almost midday and getting rather hot. With a de-tor around the villages and local waterways we must have cycled at least 20km. Get back to our Hoi An home, park the bikes - quick shower and a G&T for refreshment and updating the blog.

That afternoon we enjoyed a sample tray of vietnamese coffee at a place run to help deaf and dumb people which was another bit of charity work - but of course we don't like to bang on about all the charity work that we do." Mums the word". Situated in a authentic shop house that had been restored to the highest standards. It was quite funny as we wanted to sit at the front and one of the girls had to gesture to a couple who were hogging the seats to move (after we had waited 15 mins). She was so brave as she was tiny, could not talk but was not intimidated even though the two women looked quite fierce - the cafe certainly instilled self confidence.