As I write we are killing time before we have to leave Sapa for the night train back to Hanoi. We have spent a great week in Sapa treking in the hills and living with locals, making the whole experience one of the highlights of this trip. Sapa is one of the most beautiful places in the world and absolutley worth spending a decent amount of time here.

We arrived in Sapa last week following the train (The "Deluxe" night train cabin we booked was really good and much easier to sleep on than the bus. The "Deluxe" aspect came from the gold piping on the duvet and pillows.....very luxurious!). A mini bus then took us higher and higher into the mountains and we ascended into the mist. The temperature was considerably lower than we were used to and soon after arriving I dug out my fleece from the bottom of my bag and it hasn't really come off since then! We had arranged to stay in a homestay in a minority village outside of Sapa town. Expecting a wooden shack with a sleeping bag at best, we were very suprised to arrive at Tavan Homestay to find we had our own room with private bathroom and hot shower! The owner Hoad and his family made us feel right at home and we soon settled in to life in the village. Tavan is one of the many minority villages around Sapa and home to the Giay people. Each village is home to various hill tribes, distinguished by their various bright clothes, headscarves and textiles. We also had the experience of eating like a local and everyday we were presented with massive meals of delicious local Vietnamese food. On day one we could bearly finish one bowl of rice each, by the end of the week, we were tucking into at leat 3 or 4 bowls per meal! We had some real amazing foods, my favourite being a speciality sausage made from free-range black pig and smoked in the fire. Dan's favourite was another type of sausage made again with local pork but wrapped in banana leaves and great dipped in soy sauce and chilli. We were officially made part of the family when we were toasted with apple cider before a meal ate with all the family. However this was no Magners, it was actually just rice wine, a very strong spirit, with a hint of apple flavour. I bowed out after 4 shots but Dan stormed on having about 6 or 7 before calling it a day....thankfully the crisp mountain air cleared any chance of a hangover and we repeated this ritual a few times including at another village when we were welcomed into a different family, but this time with just pure rice wine.

We were so lucky that Hoad has years of experience as a tour guide in the area and he gave us many treks to do around the hills surrounding Tavan. He also took us on an overnight trek further afield, meeting various other tribes, all friendly and beautiful but usually wanting you to buy something from them ("you buy from me.....where you from?....you buy something from me......maybe later I remember you and you buy from me.....") We followed some roads but mainly took buffallo trails up and down the hills and rice paddies. It was fun to wander the trails and then suddenly be up close with a buffalo who just appeared out of the mist! There were also plenty of free range pigs, ducks, chickens and dogs all over the hillsides. It was great fun. Of the hikes Dan and I did on our own, my favourite was our last one. We took of in search of another village but strayed up several buffalo paths before we realised we were climbing to the top of a fairly big mountain. We passed through the clouds and were engulfed in mist, unable to see more than 5 metres around us. The vegetation also closed in and I dubbed myself Mrs Mears and I broke through branches and bamboo to finally get to a little clearing at the top where the view was........absolutely no idea!! Mist swirled around us and we could see nothing! We sat for a bit to catch our breath and eat our packed lunch of rice and eggs. The decent was just as exciting and we passed and amazing house clinging to the hillside above some rice paddies. The children of the house called out to us "hello....goodbye....hello....goodbye" but they soon dissappeared as we went further downhill and they remained in the clouds.

Its been a great experience and although I am a little sad to leave I am looking forward to our next adventure. Following a quick stop in Hanoi (of about 2 hours) we are then off by bus to Halong Bay to spend 3 days kayaking and living on a boat. I cant wait. I hope you all like the photos from Sapa but please believe me when I say even though Dan and I have the same clothes on in every photo we have actually changed and we dont smell too bad!! Ha!

Lots of Love

Rhan xx