We've survived the Vodka Train! I never ever thought I'd drink so much vodka in my life, let alone in three weeks on this tour. Good times were had by all, and no one got alcohol poisoning (definite bonus).

The Trans-Siberian journey was wonderful (despite the cranky "prodvonistas" who were taking care of us in the cabins, the crazy guy who looked like Jack Nicholson, the searing heat, and the unsmiling Russian authorities). The people in the tourism industry are some of the most inhospitable people you'll meet in your life; yet, the locals are friendly, willing to share food, vodka, and music. What an odd contradiction!

Lake Baikal was a neat stop--very small and rural, plenty of fresh air, a nice cafe and a really great sauna. We did a traditional Russian suana, which includes getting doused in freezing cold water, beating hit with branches and getting snow rubbed on you while you're in the sauna. The best part was the cold water, honestly! The sauna was attached to the chalet we were staying in, so it was a nice relaxing evening close to home.

After Lake Baikal we had a long slow ride to Mongolia. We spent one night in Ulaan Baatar, where we heard a live rock concert where all of the instruments were traditional Mongolian ones (very cool music). They combine throat singing with some very Asian and Indian sounds; an interesting mix. We also saw a culture show (singing, dancing and some disturbingly young girls doing contortionist stuff). After dinner, we headed to a night club. The highlight of that was the breakdancing crew that showed up to perform. They even had a kid with them who was probably 9 years old! They were really really good. Oh, and about 6 of us polished off a bottle of vodka. Since when has it become normal for us to go the a club, order a bottle of vodka iwth a few friends, finish it quickly and not think anything of it?!?

After the night out in UB, we trundled into a bus and made for the Mongolian steppe, where we stayed in a traditional nomad hut. They're heated by wood stoves and were surrounded by mountains and snow. It was cold, but fun. The highlight (lowlight?) was the toilet--literally an outhouse with 5 planks acting as the floor, with one of them missing. That's what you squat over. Nice. Definitely not the hands-free flush toilets we have at work! Count yourselves lucky :)

A couple of nights at the ger, with a horse ride, a hike and a temple squeezed in and then we were back into UB for another night. We visited the Natural History Museum, quite possibly the worst taxidermy I've ever seen. And, being from Barss Corner, I've seen enough to be able to compare! Wow, it was bad. Lots of things to look at and poke fun of, though.

Next, we made our way to China. Long border crossings, more cup-a-soup and instant noodles. Lots of tea too. But we got a friendly cabin attendant, which our group was beginning to think didn't exist!

On our journey through China, towards Beijing, we got our frist glimpes of the Great Wall. I swear the train was goign to tip over as we all ran to the side of the carriage to spot it! We were all pretty excited obviously. It's amazing to see and think about the work that went into it.

Yesterday we actually got to hike on the Wall for a few hours. The scenery, even without the Wall, was gorgeous. The leaves have mostly fallen off the trees, but there were a few hints of reds and yellows. There were mountains in every direction and you could see the Wall snaking off for miles and miles. I have no clue how they actually got the supplies up there to build the darn thing in the first place!

We hiked as far as we could (they close parts of it off if it's too dangerous), and then on our way back we decided to have an adventure. There's a zip line that you can take for about $5. It sends you down the hill, over a big river, and lands you on the other side. It's about 3kms total. Then you hop in the slowest boat you've ever seen (we honestly thought it was a peddle boat, it was going so slow) and head to the restaurant. Good times. Friends of ours got some good photos that we'll try to get up here sooner rather than later.

Last night we did supper and headed to a night market. Things are insanely cheap here (the fake stuff is, anyway). The night market was bustling and a bit overwhelming. Joel and I are definitely not shoppers! We couldn't stand being in the shopping area for long; the food are was much more appealing to us. And, yes, we've seen people eating bugs already. Not us though!

Beijing isn't nearly as chaotic as we thought it would be. Parts of it are actually quite peaceful . Ulaan Baatar was definitely more scary in terms of being a pedestrian. They literally will run you over if you're in their way. Beijing has a bazillion bicycles (yes, bazillion is a word, I swear) and that slows the pace of the roads a bit. Not a ton, but a bit.

We're here for the next couple of days (tomorrow we visit Mao Tsetung's Creepy Mausoleum and Tiananmen Square), then we head west to Datong, Xian and eventually Chengdu (to see the panda "bears"). All told we're in China for 30 days and then it's off to Hong Kong.

We'll write more soon!

m & j