Hue

Our journey by train to Hue was quite an interesting experience.The 2 ½ hour trip is supposed to be one of the best in the country as it goes through mountain tunnels and follows the coast.Unfortunately in our carriage we had locals who had already been on the train for many hours (most probably 12-14 hours from Ho Chi Min City) so all they wanted to do was sleep.Hence curtains on most windows were closed, blocking our view, and the lady in the seat behind liked to rest her feet on either side of Chris's seat (see photo!).The refreshment carts were interesting - no sandwiches, chips or lollies but corn on the cob or boiled eggs - both in steaming vats of hot water!!

Although we found Hue very interesting for its history (it was the capital of South Vietnam until 1945), we had a few minor irritations here.When we arrived at our hotel, we discovered there was no water in the swimming pool (maintenance in low season).This was a big deal as our weather has been hot and humid and all sightseeng has to be undertaken early in the morning as after lunch all we want to do is get cool!!So we complained (in Chris's usual fashion!) and got a move to their other hotel and a refund!

The following morning (Monday 14 September) we took a visit to the Citadel but first got dropped off by taxi at the wrong entrance so had to walk for half an hour to get to the right one (never trust a taxi driver who doesn't speak any English).We stopped off halfway for our daily coffee fix - a local café where we got 2 coffees forless than 70c and where the waitress even chased after us to give us our tip back - something we have never experienced before!!

Many of Hue's 300,000 or so residents live within the 2m thick, 10km long walls of the Citadel which even has a zig zag moat around it.It also houses a second citadel containing the remains of the Nguyen emperors' palace and temples, much of which was destroyed by bombing during the American War but which are now being rebuilt, thanks to funding from UNESCO as yes, this is another World Heritage site.Approximately 10,000 people died in Hue over one month in 1968 durng the Tet Offensive when the North Vietnamese and Vietcong troups took the city, catching the Americans unaware!!

On Tuesday (15 September), we took a trip (Chris, plugged up with GastroStop after mistakenly taking ice in her beer at a local restaurant) in one of the local Dragon Boats (which families actually live on when they are not making money out of tourists!!).Together with our boatman and female assistant (neither of whom could speak much English) we sailed down the river to see the Thien Mu Pagoda which was originally built in 1601 but was destroyed and rebuilt several times and has also been the location of several political demonstrations.

We then continued our journey some 12kms down the Perfume (!!) River to the Tomb of Minh Mang (Nguyen Emperor 1820-1840).The fee for hiring our Dragon Boat was supposed to include a stop at another, equally "majestic and serene" royal tomb on our return journey.However our boatman and female attendant informed us that we would have to either travel by motorbike or walk 2 ½ kms each way from the boat landing!!Again, Chris did her usual verbal indication of dissatisfaction (no doubt due to the heat, not to mention the incessent selling tactics of the female attendant regarding wooden figures, paintings, bookmarks, cool drinks, lunch at family restaurant, not to mention silk shirts, blouses and pyjamas!! - Yes it truly is amazing what these women can produce out of the hidey holes of these boats!).So the demand was obeyed and we sailed back into town.

We do have to admit that Hue has not been our favourite destination and think we have been spoiled by Hoi An which was so inviting.Dave also came close to a fight with a local "teen" after he was coughed on at close proximity while we were on an evening sojourn along the picturesque Trang Tien Bridge (which spans the Perfume River and which has arches which individually change colour from deep pink to white to yellow to pale green - very captivating!).The "Glasgow Kiss" reaction briefly surfaced in Dave and we had to push through the throngs to catch up with the offender so that Dave could then cough in his face and utter a threat of throwing him into the river below if he ever dared to cough over Dave again!!!

Yes we do believe that Hue is not bringing out the best in us!!!