After a night of being constantly propelled to the chair in front of me we reached Medellin. It is a huge city centred in a valley and sprawled up the mountains either side. On arrival it looked like a massive shanty town, then we reached the 'tourist' area with green leafy squares and hints of the western world.

Medellin is famous, or notorious, for Pablo Escobar, the former head of the Medellin drug cartel. This guy was so rich he once offered to pay off Columbia's foreign debt in its entirety. As you do. Though he did much for the poor (who still keep his grave fresh with flowers), he killed thousands in the narco war (most people in the city of my age + know someone that died due to Escobar), corrupted all levels of policing and politics (often offering the subject 'silver or lead'; a bribe or death) and has much to do with the drug stigma that still haunts Columbia. All up a solid scumbag.

We thought it best to get a local view on the matter and took in the Escobar tour. A few stops on the tour; a big apartment block where he used to run his empire, right in the middle of the city. Now a bombed out shell due to a Cali Cartel (their main rivals) car bomb. Then onto a big city cemetery where he is buried with some of his family. An insult to those buried along side him who died at his demand?

Finally up a hill to an affluent part of town to visit his brother, Roberto, the cartel accountant. I wasn't too keen on this part, he may not have killed (or ordered the killing) of anyone himself but he knew what he was part of. For all that he only spent 11 years in jail (where he was rendered half deaf and half blind due to a Cali Cartel letter bomb. Karma?). The house he lives in was one of their many safe houses, now a shrine to Pablo. The desk that once held 2 million dollars, the bomb proof hidden room behind the bookcase and the chocolate Labrador were highlights. His answering of questions were comically bias. (if you're interested in Escobar, theres a really good doco called the 2 Escobars).

Medellin is also know for its beautiful women (many of which have surgically enhanced chests) and great night life. Just walking the streets the former was evident and a night at a very local salsa bar confirmed the later. I think Columbians must be born dancing.

Rumour had it 'miss world Hooters' resided at the Hooters in Medellin. Funnily enough Emmett, who hates American burger type establishments, wanted to visit. The brownie was sensational, the girls were not ugly either.

The mountains around the city apparently make it the perfect spot for paragliding. I hadn't tried it before so decided nothing like the present, then immediately proceeded to have heart palpitations at the thought. Driving up the mountain was scary enough, then we met the well aged instructor who explained in broken English we would be running of the cliff, 'don't stop, run, run, run, run'. Not an entirely natural thing to do. Things got worse for me when he strapped Emmett to his back and left me with his 15 year old son (at a guess). As usual my worries were for nothing, there was no tumbling down the cliff, we got airborne easily. My guide proceeded to remove his helmet, take out his phone and put some reggaton music on. It was fabulous.

Our time in Columbia was almost through with another freezing night bus back to Bogota. We spent much of the day looking for the gorgeous, colourful woven bags of Cartagena that Emmett had talked me out of buying whilst there. Why I would actually listen to him regarding my wardrobe in the first place is a mystery to me. Now we both suffer as I don't have the bag and he has to hear about it ;)

For our final night in Columbia we met the lovely Columbian couple from Santa Marta. Of course dinner turned into drinks ending up at a random bar where the singer was being fed tequila shots at a rapid rate. He eventually fell off his chair.

Janner insisted on walking us back to the hostel. Other than a huge police/army presence on the street we hadn't really seen anything 'scary' in Columbia. Until we reached the hostel. At the intersection next to the building was a man dressed in head to toe black, including a balaclava with a massive gun, staring at us. Being the police and army don't dress like that not sure who he was but more than enough to freak us both out. Time to head to Lima, Peru and meet our tour group. Fingers crossed its a decent bunch!