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Before departing Kazungula we had to push-start the truck because the battery was low! On the way to the border between Botswana and Zambia we happily overtook the miles and miles (literally) of haulage trucks that were queued up to take the tiny ferry across the Zambezi River to the Zambian side (tourists have priority - it was quite fun, it felt like we were VIPs!). The Zambian immigration officials didn't even cross reference our passports to our faces - Sammy was able to get all 23 passports stamped together so we didn't have to hang around for too long.
As we drove on to the campsite just outside Livingstone it started raining - everything was muddy and there were lots of monkeys running around and climbing on the truck. We went to see Victoria Falls from the Eastern Cataract, it was an impressive view though there was not much water - it was dry season during which water levels can fall to four per cent of the peak flow.
That night we had our last group dinner - we went to a nice Indian restaurant in Livingstone and had a great meal. Unfortunately the evening ended on a bit of a downer - we presented the trip leader/driver and cook, Linda and Sammy, with cards from the group, however, Linda was having personal problems and (understandably) didn't really want to be there meanwhile Sammy was as drunk as a skunk and gave a long rambling speech that didn't make much sense. Then when it came to paying some people paid by credit card and the restaurant charged them in US Dollars at a poor exchange rate to Zambian Kwacha so they kicked up a big fuss. I was shattered and couldn't wait to get back to bed but when we finally arrived at the campsite and opened up the tent our mattresses had been soaked by the heavy rain that had fallen while we were at dinner so we had to try to change them - all our things were damp and outside the tent was like a swamp so every time we went anywhere we got covered in mud It certainly made us appreciate how lucky we'd been with the weather for the rest of the trip. On the plus side, the campsite had two-ply toilet roll, which may sound like a bizarre thing to notice but it was a treat as everywhere else we'd been in Africa only had one-ply toilet roll!
The following morning we went to the Zim-Zam Bridge between Zambia and Zimbabwe to watch Michael and Sammy bungee jump. We could see the white water rafts and canoes careering down the river below. We crossed the border line in the middle of the bridge into Zimbabwe but only by a few metres (unfortunately the Zimbabwean visa was very expensive - it wasn't worth it for just a day). Around the border there were lots of men trying to sell 100 billion Zimbabwean Dollar notes to tourists.
Ruth and I went to the very swanky Royal Livingstone Hotel where we saw a baboon run into the restaurant, stuff its mouth and hands full with as many sugar packets as it could fit in and then run off in the direction of the swimming pool! It was from the hotel that we took a boat over to Livingstone Island with an English couple, Mossy and Neil, and a guide, Alex. We swam at the top of Victoria Falls (right at the edge!) and hung over the edge to look down - more than 100 metres - it was a pretty terrifying but amazing experience. Back on the island, we dried off and then were served a sumptuous breakfast of coffee, muffin and eggs benedict - proper luxury! Back to the Royal Livingstone, Ruth and I had Pimms on a beautiful wooden deck bar right on the Zambezi River with hippos swimming and grunting in front of us, including two little ones playing.
Later that day we went for a helicopter ride over the Falls, which was a lot of fun (I'd never been in a helicopter before) and a good way to appreciate the size of the Falls.
The next day I went abseiling down the Zambezi Gorge, did a 'flying fox' zip wire across the top and jumped off attached to a very long rope 'gorge swing'. I was joined by Dora from England and Caz from Australia who were doing an overland tour together, plus Graeme from Aberdeen living in Azerbaijan and Duncan from Cape Town living in Angola who worked for the same oil company and were just in Livingstone for a few days. It was a tiring looong walk up the gorge after abseiling. I enjoyed the flying fox the most and did it three times. The gorge swing was the most terrifying thing I've ever done in my life - I bottled out of doing it a second time. We hung around with the guys that operate the activities for a while afterwards, having a couple of beers and discussing the merits and scandals of the various Southern African leaders.
In the afternoon I met up with a bunch of the girls from my tour plus Linda and her friend, Jenny, for High Tea at the Royal Livingstone Hotel. It was very fancy (the first time in a long time that I'd used a proper china tea set) and great fun. The sun beamed down on us as we sat on the outdoor deck. I had earl grey tea, a bacon quiche, finger sandwiches and as much cake as I could eat! Altogether, a very relaxed afternoon. There were lots of monkeys running in and grabbing things off the tables - several men were employed just to keep them away by chasing them and throwing stones but it was difficult and the monkeys were crafty!
On our last evening in Africa, we had a few beers at the Jollyboys Hostel where we were staying - this was by candlelight due to a powercut that seemed to affect only our hostel! Then we went to Ann's Bar & Grill (Makumba) for dinner, local stylee, it was slow and some orders were mixed-up or forgotten completely but the food was good enough and it was a more authentic African experience.
Before we headed for the airport I browsed the curios market and bartered for various handicrafts. Ruth and I had separate flights from Livingstone to Johannesburg - I was mysteriously allocated to business class on mine and thoroughly enjoyed the complimentary champagne and newspaper and the slightly better food and wine. Ruth and I met up again in Johannesburg airport for the long flight back to London. I loved my time in Africa and look forward to coming back and seeing more of it one day!
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