Vang Vieng! We quietly think to ourselves what this little town would have been like before us tourists invaded it and unfortunately remoulded its personality. It's surrounded by the most breathtaking mountains with a beautiful turquoise river which runs through it separating the main town from "Party Island". One can't help but fantasise about being the only people there and having the river and mountains all to ourselves, but unfortunately we don't. The streets of Vang Vieng are lined with restaurants and bars all with "stadium configured" seating facing massive flat screen televisions blaring out South Park, Family Guy and re-runs of Friends. Tourists sit there gawking at their western comforts whilst the beautiful river flows past un-watched. A true tragedy for those who are in Laos for more reasons than $1 beers and cheap clothes.

Well that's enough of the boring negative view on Vang Vieng, because once you get over the initial shock you can have an absolute "jol" here. That morning we were up at 8 and hit the pancake lady for some banana and Nutella sustenance! The night before we had booked ourselves onto a cave exploring and kayaking tour so with pancakes in hand, chocolate dripping everywhere and Kate having a nervous breakdown due to hunger we ran to our tuk tuk which was to take us to the cave. Upon arrival we noticed Chinese tourists everywhere and our group walked around with no idea were to go. Our guides had disappeared and left us all looking at each other going "What the hell"! About fifteen minutes later they returned and ushered us down to a small turquoise pool. There where about 15 tubes stacked on top of each other and we all lined up to jump into one and head toward a small crack in the side of the cliff face which allowed one person at a time to grab onto a rope and head into the darkness. First Kate lay down on her tube and slowly lowered herself into the chilly water! What happened next was a bit like when you dunk your new born child into a baby pool for the first time. I thought walking on water wasn't possible, but what I saw that day was pretty close. For lack of words to really describe the chaos that broke out due to Kate's reaction, lets just say, serious SITUATION. After going into the blackness for 5 minutes I realised that this little cave was actually not so little and started feeling slightly s*** scared. Kate on the other hand was happy as hell and with roles reversed we kept going deeper and deeper into the mountain. The walls of the cave drew in closer and the ceiling lower until the water was too shallow and we had to crawl, dragging our tubes behind us. The water then got deeper and colder again and yet there seemed to be no end to this labyrinth. Finally we reached the rest of the group and we turned around and headed back bumping into all the other folk heading in the opposite direction. Complete chaos 300 metres into the mountain and pitch dark barr the completely "flat battery" headlights we where given to view the cave with. I have never been so happy to see light in my life.

After a quick lunch of grilled chicken and rice we were off to the river for some kayaking. This was what we really came for! Once aboard our two man kayak we pushed off the bank and headed into the beautiful water surrounded by lush jungle. The kayaking was so peaceful and really showed of Vang Viengs natural beauty. There were children playing on the river banks and people fishing all around us. After about an hour on the river we stopped for a couple of beers and a snack. Then back onto the water. About 50metres ahead of us there was a small child having a bath on the side of the river. Her mother rubbing soap all over her and making her look like a little fluffy marshmallow. Kate and I were so busy watching this little spectacle that we didn't see the boulder which was slightly protruding from the now very rapidly flowing river. I just wish I had caught the next moment on camera because it was hilarious. Our kayak hit the rock, spun us sideways and tipped the both of us and our belongings into the river. Marshmallow girl and her mother were in stitches. I still have the picture in my head of my fiancé of 3 weeks disappearing under the kayak and me yanking her out by her life jacket. I'm sure you get the picture.......chaos! Another hour on the river and we were done.

Having had a super cool day we walked with wet clothes back to our accommodation, showered and met our German friends for dinner. We spoke for hours about life all over the world and our different lives. After dinner we booked a bus ticket to Vientiane, the capital. The next morning we boarded the bus and braced ourselves for another gruelling journey. Goodbye Vang Vieng. Same same but oh so very different.............