The bus ride from Ho Chi Minh to Phnom Penh was like stepping into first class after the state of transport in Vietnam. A cold face towel, water, snacks and general information on Cambodia were provided by our bus company. The border crossing was reasonably tame and we rolled into Cambodia's capital with little effort.

As we stepped off the bus a swarm of tuk tuk drivers offered to take us anywhere we wanted to go. So we hopped into the back of one and headed for the riverfront. The traffic was crazy so our guy took us down some quieter alleyways and bi-roads. The tragedy of what had happened in Cambodia is still easy to see in Phnom Penh. Some buildings still cary the scars of a terrible era and others have been patched up with new brickwork. Once the "Pearl of Asia" we cannot help but feel sad for this city. However Phnom Penh has become a serious player once more and is attracting huge investments from South Korea and China. The amount of money being put into this place is mind boggling. Construction sites are everywhere and the general feeling is one of positive growth. Phnom Penh is rising from the ashes!

We found a nice little hotel right on the Tonle Sap river and dropped off our gear. We had planned to meet an old friend of mine, Timothy Bruyns, who along with his girlfriend Christina are opening a restaurant in Phnom Penh. Tim met us and promptly took us to the coolest roof top bar which overlooked the Grand Palace and most of the city. From above we enjoyed some cold beers and just watched the frenzy going on below us. We shared old stories from when Tim and I worked at Buitenverwachting together and chuckled at the crazy times we endured at Singita Lebombo. We were all a world away from what we called home but enjoyed each others company like never before. After drinks Tim took us to a great restaurant and we ate like kings. He assured us to rest well for tomorrow he wanted to show us the city and its sights.

The next morning Tim took us to the Russian market where you could buy anything from frying pans to preserved fish. The market was filled with many intense smells and sights. One particular item for sale is known as "Cambodian cheese". Spawning fish are lightly salted then stacked on top of one another and fermented for around a year. The end result a smell and taste which puts the strongest shrimp paste to shame. The stuff could make a grown man cry and probably take the paint off walls if you wanted it to. Apparently it's used for flavouring soups and stews. I stuck my nose into a jar of it just to get a whiff and it nearly knocked me clean off my feet. Intense! After the Russian market Tim's personal Tuk tuk driver drove us to central market where hundreds of fresh crab, live prawns and fish where being kept in large aerated tanks. We strolled around and watched the daily local trade taking place. We both felt really privileged to be taken around by somebody who really understood the city, it's markets and its culture. Thanks again Tim and Christina.

Once we had explored most of the markets we headed back to Tim's place and chilled out for the rest of the afternoon before heading out for dinner. I'm not sure how to describe our meal that night. It was really bad. The four of us had spoken the whole day about going to this new Japanese place that had only been open for a month or so. Stale bread with ants all over it, cold soup, fewer menu options than a street stall but staff that where so happy to have us. A classic case of "I feel like opening a restaurant but don't know how to do it". After dinner we headed back to Tim's and Christina's spot as they where having us stay for the last two nights whilst in the city. Tomorrow we're heading to "Toul Sleng". Known as prison 21. The place where 20000 Cambodians where held prisoner and later executed by Pol Pots armies. Tim refuses to come with us!

After a very cultured breakfast our personal tuk tuk expressed us out to Toul Sleng prison. Once one of the most prestigious schools in Phnom Penh. This place had been taken over in 1975 and converted into a prison and torture house for anybody who showed signs of opposing Pol Pots regime. The walls of the buildings had a grim washed charcoal look about them and the courtyard was filled with grave sites. The front of the school was completely covered in a netting made from barbed wire. This was to prevent prisoners from escaping and committing suicide by jumping from the higher levels. The rooms are filled with old photographs of prisoners before and after torture. Many of the cells are completely untouched since the opening of the museum in 1979. After about 2 hours of looking around the prison we where both completely depressed and felt sick to the bottom of our souls at the sheer cold hearted madness that had gripped Cambodia for four years. Pol Pot died in 1998 and some of his main officers where only sentenced to prison in 2007. Many generals and Khmer Rouge participants are still living in Cambodia. Many have bought their innocence or are still paying for it. Unfortunately Cambodia suffers from extreme corruption and its crazy to think that the people who committed such terrible crimes against humanity are still abroad and living better lives than those who lost everything. Just under 2 million people perished under Pol Pot from 1975 to 1979. Cambodia basically lost an entire generation. Anybody who was in any way influenced by the western world or opposed his governance was killed. The craziest fact is that all of Pol Pots generals and advisers had all studied in France prior to the genocide. Go figure.....

That night we played some pool at a local bar and had some dinner at a super busy spot with plastic chairs and tablecloths. The food was awesome and consisted of grilled frogs legs, braised Mekong fish and many other smaller side dishes.

In the morning we said our farewell's to Tim and Christina and were extremely sad to say goodbye as we'd had such a great time with them. They had convinced us to head down to the sleepy little fishing village called Kep. Known for its fresh crab dishes and lazy pace. Sounds good to us. Same same but Pol Pot you're a disgrace..........