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After a short 2 hour 'Avianca' flight I arrive in Salvador from Rio de Janeiro...well a short flight in Brazilian terms. The other option would have been a 26 hour bus journey, no choice really and with a short timeframe to do so much I think I'll end up flying a few more times before this journey is over. Especially as I'm going to try to fit in a week chilling on the beaches of Costa Rica and flying back via New York...Drummond & Dalia, if you are reading this get ready for my arrival!
The plan is only to stay in Salvador for 1 night, refuel and set off again...so for ease; myself and my travel companion Lee booked into Che Lagarto again in Salvador as we received a 20% discount voucher from the Rio hostel...bargain!
Che Lagarto was situated in the Barra region of Salvador, right on the beach front. The hostel was basic but an okay location if you wanted to stay out of the touristic Pelourinho region. The hostel staff didn't speak a word of English and with my lack of Portuguese/Spanish vocabulary, booking anything here was going to be a real challenge...hello iPhone translation app! The dorm itself was very stuffy and with the door broken, I had to climb through the window to enter...not too great for security - time to double padlock everything. Although by the look of Salvador outside, I'll chance keeping my valuables in the dorm. My dorm 'friends' this time around were a Brazilian women who was on a hostel management training course and in Salvador for 1 year...she yearned to go back to Rio, understandably. The other roomie was a Brazilian guy who I scarcely saw but seemed pleasant. The hostel had internet and was busy with backpackers so there were some good points. Met an English guy from Northampton (Ben), Israeli (Shay) and a Swedish guy. All could speak a little Portuguese which helped out massively.
First impressions of Salvador itself were not too great, the beach was not much to write home about and the city had a distinct feel about it that put you on edge throughout my visit here. I would later grow to really like this charming place during my short stay here.
After check-in at the Hostel and a little freshen up (single roll of the deodorant stick!) I headed out to Pelourinho "The Pelo". I arrived at the Pelo late afternoon and was greeted straight away by a so called tour guide who seemed too helpful to be genuine...be alert. It was quite funny when he described me as a local Brazilian and Lee as a Gringo, the same thoughts must have been with the local beggers who hassled Lee constantly for money whereas as a 'local' they didn't even bother to harass me. The Pelo was amazing, the buildings had character and the roads were all old cobbled streets. Friendly street vendors lined the Pelo Square selling local Brazilian snacks. I was in the Pelo for twilight but this small little area of Salvador seemed very safe, if fact as a tourist I felt like a protected species as tourist police were very present and roamed the streets until late evening...when they leave, you leave.
The next day and my final day in Salvador, was much the same really - I headed for the Pelo again but this time with a local Brazilian who run the Che Lagarto hostel and didn't have anything else to do with his day...so acted as our tour guide. First stop lunch "Empada Brasil" a small 'eat as much as you like' lunch...typical of Brazil. Back in the Pelo...much better than the Barra region - the highlight of the day has to be standing in the very spot where Michael Jackson created the video for his song "They Don't Really Care About Us" and some local shop keeper let us upstairs in his house where Michael Jackson stood on his balcony in the video also. I'm not sure how old that song is, but the locals sure are milking it...shops selling replica tops that MJ wore in the video are everywhere and can be found much cheaper in the nearby markets.
That's pretty much it for Salvador a quick 1 nighter but I will leave with fond memories, as soon as you work out where to go safely and do not push these boundaries you can relax and enjoy this delightful city.
Heading to Maceio on an 11 hour bus journey next...11 hours pah no problem!
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