...I fly to Punta Arenas and even though Camilo, Micha, Ingrid and I are supposed to be on the same plane, they go on a big one and I fly 1 hour later and get a small 14-seater with an open cockpit and excellent photo opportunities (glaciers!!!)...I hang around the town enjoying the sun, fast internet and ample dining choices...all the people I meet think I'm from Argentina on account of my looks and accent (which is involuntary but supposedly Argentine)...I ...

...I relax and hang a lot at the local museum, the only place with Internet but it's so slow that I decide to check out the exhibits instead. Not bad!...I go for a walk to the nearby lighthouse and find the beach extremely dirty....I play around with the owners' endearing daughter, Luna....we talk to the guys at the department of forestry and soon enough with minimum expense Seba becomes the proud owner of a beaver pelt and Camilo and I - of a ziplock bag...

...we wake up and I try to dry my socks over an open fire for the stove with partial success...we set off on what is supposed to be a short downward stretch through the forest, wander off the trail and put enormous effort into battling tree branches, fallen trunks and swampy areas, with extremely slow progress.....until we find the trail and finally arrive at the road after 3 hours walking....we get picked up almost immediately, we meet my former travel companion...

...in the morning the tent is quite moist from condensation and the dogs - it seems - have abandoned us....we set off and on the beginning the trail is quite easy to follow but soon becomes convoluted and difficult;...we venture into very steep slopes with extremely muddy surface where we have to grapple onto tree branches to even think of continuing and we redefine the term "trail";...I lose my hat and struggle back to find it;...I fall too many times too count ...

...I wake up and find everything covered in snow...I set off and immediately lose one of my gloves, backtrack and find it again!...the dogs still follow me though more reluctantly...I struggle to find trail in the forest, slip and fall for the first time, breaking off the tip of one of my sticks...I catch up with two backpackers from Santiago, who spent the night at the same place as me and we continue together; Sebastián is a psychologist and Camilo - a doctor;...