I awoke this morning at 6 o clock to the sound of exotic birds in the trees outside going bwark and cheep and nark-nark in that extraordinary way that birds do in national parks when there's nobody around to throw a shoe at them - it was one onomatopoeic forest out there this morning. I found it utterly delightful, in fact, after staying in built up areas for the last few weeks, to finally be able to open a window and look out on something other than a hundred th...

If you're planning on following in my footsteps and taking a bus from Trogir, Dubrovnik or Zagreb, I thoroughly recommend buying your ticket from the ticket office before boarding the bus, preferably a couple of hours in advance, as you can then enquire as to which platform to go to - something which quickly drills itself into your subconscious once you've got your head around the concept of bus platforms. Otherwise, you may well end up wandering around the bus s...

The old town of Trogir also suffers from another problem, which is this: when you first arrive, overflowing with excitement for the historic town in which you will be staying, it is a little disappointing to discover that you can walk through it in 30 seconds flat and find yourself at a harbour full of cafes and yachts before you've even noticed the charm. It quickly turns out, however, that this is entirely your own fault and what you forgot to go was make any s...

Kamerlengo castle - or Fortress Kamerlengo as the locals like to call it in an attempt to make the place sound altogether more grand than it actually is - has stood since the middle of the 15th century on the harbour front at Trogir and provides that part of the skyline which draws people to the island when they see it on postcards. Originally, the fortress was surrounded by a sand filled ditch - because walking on sand was obviously considered far too treacherou...

Trogir is a small historic town and UNESCO World Heritage Site located on the Adriatic coast, about 15 miles outside Split, and a little piece of history waiting to be discovered. If your idea of a holiday to remember involves wandering around ancient cobbled streets, browsing souvenir stores crammed into medieval buildings from another time and sitting at street cafes pretending to have been transported a few hundred years into the past, Trogir is somewhere not ...