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India? Sometimes referred to as a place of "Unity and diversity", and that, is exactly what it is. On our travels so far, little or even none of the countries we have visited, have quite had the diversity, but mass unison, than that of India. In fact I know, nowhere other than London, that I have tread foot in, where Hindus rub shoulders so closely with Christians, and Muslims with Buddhas, and atheists with everyone. Little places do I know, where people live this way, in pretty much, peace and harmony. Community and people is all that matters here, not what you believe or where you are from.In many ways I feel sorry for people here, the government doesn't really do much for people, but India does have a future, and what they lack in many things, they make up for in their general innocence, and naivety.
So far on our travels, I wouldn't say I am a different person, but i would say I look and value things differently. Especially in south America, I realized how lucky we really are, that we have freedom of speech (even if no one listens), without jail or worse. Many places we have seen, people haven't left their own villages, let alone jet off all around the world. I have truly come to realize that although in many ways we have lost the community and love in England and its hugely expensive, we are so lucky to live in a country whereby we can go to school free of charge, have free health care, actually have; contrary to belief a really good political system, and national help and assistance when we need it. I cant put into words really what I am trying to say, but when embarking on a long trip, which entails much traveling in trains, buses, cars etc, you have so much time to think, and you use that time, to the point where you cannot control your thoughts, or even remember them.
If purely for the people, India is a beautiful place, but that by no means, is it perfect. Obviously much of the landscape is beautiful, as are the people, colors and food.. But there is also a lot of poverty, beating and starvation, which in contrast feels so strange in a religious place where the people are generally so friendly.We will be true to our words when we try to explain life here as a tourist, a traveler, a white person. You never feel threatened or unsafe, but for being a white person,a white girl, with western clothes and features, I have never known such fascination, harassment and hassle. Even when we visit places where many westerns tread. Traveling as two girls, we will naturally experience India in a different light, for when we are with men or boys, the nature whereby people go about approaching us is very different. But its not just how people approach, its to a vast amount of times it happens. We will walk the streets and be followed, by actually usually friendly men (always men), walking, in rickshaws (tuc tucs) or cars and bikes, but to the point where you will be standing there, and its like your famous, every single person is shouting at you, trying to get you attention, look down your top, touch you, laugh at you, anything but at you. Its a intimidating feeling, one of which unnerves you, even if they are being friendly, its the sheer amount of people that makes you feel completely uncomfortable but you have to accept it. We have got to the point where we have to tell ourselves not to remember India from the harassment. Its an amazing place, juts a difficult one.
On our first few days in India, or should I say hours, even minutes, saying the words, trying to adjust, really doesn't quite cut it. Adjusting to everything, it was beautiful and yet daunting all at the same time. The colors, the noise, the traffic, the food, the dust, the smells, the clothes everything, but the biggest one, was almost definitely the heat! Words do not describe the heat we felt the minute we stepped out of the airport. I did not think heat like it existed, until you come here yourself in the midst height of the summer, you will never quite understand the way I am about to describe this to you. Its like stepping into a sauna room, with no escape, the air is hot to breath so you almost feel there is no oxygen, any bad smells linger in the air and your nose, to the point where it hurts. Lets just say, we sweat so much, day and night, non stop, we are drinking tons, but sweating out more, luckily after about a week, we did adjust to the actual heat, and although its only got hotter, we don't feel like we are in a chamber of heat, the initial shock disappeared.
After 3 days in Delhi, that consisted of sleep sleep and more sleep, a bit of food and shopping. (we had some things to cover our arms). We embarked on a 12 day car tour, with a lovely man named Raj. This trip entailed traveling round India's biggest state, called Rajastan. We went to all the major cities, in the area, some were ok, some we loved, and some were pretty grim. As you can see from our pictures, we spent a beautiful night lying under the stars in the desert after a long camel ride, with no tent, just a rug and the stars. This was near one of our favorite places so far, called Jaiselmer. Its a beautiful, relatively small town, that's cast around what we liked to think of as a giant sand castle, but was actually the most amazing fort we have both ever seen. Jaiselmer fort, from the 1500 or 1600 hundreds (cant remember the details), was a giant foundation built for protection and fighting. Its now used for homes, shops, and many livelihoods. Encompassing this place was among one of our favorites, because the people here were especially nice, the views were breathtaking, and the fort itself was some what mesmerizing and beautiful.
Our driver Raj, a very lovely man, 23, married to a young women, with 3 kids (very common), working away from his lovely small town mountain home, would work for up to 6 months to serve tourists driving them around, in order to make money for his family. When he first told us this, we were deeply saddened that we had been one of the group of tourists he doesn't see home for, but he told us he was very lucky to be able to work with tourists, learn English, & make a small some for his family, apparently its a very good profession in India. Profession, the first time I ever felt this word challenged. Raj was a very quiet man, kept himself to himself. I imagine he has looked after rude tourists in the years prior to taking us out, as he was very reserved, when we ate he would even choose another table. After a lot of protesting by us ,he eventually started to join us for a food and company.
Our next main destination was Jodhpur. We liked Jodhpur, it was a reasonably sized city, with reasonably friendly people, still the same hassle as other places but not so bad. Being the main spice importer and maker in Rajastan and possibly India, the smells and colours here were among the best. The busy street markets were as colorful as they were crowded, but there was a very good atmosphere here. Bridie and I, went to a very famous spice stall, where by we bought and tried many spices and enjoyed a nice chat and cup of chai tea with the shop tender.
Udaipur, our most favorite place of yet, was a wonderful city, little hassle, with beautiful views, lovely people and spectacular shopping!!!! Within minutes of being there we came across a shop owned by a lovely man with impeccable English, an older man, about in his early 60's, but with a young heart and outlook on life. He invited us to join him to watch the sunset at a local park, a park at the top of a hill, with a breathtaking view of the sunset and city. Two days we spent in Udupair, meeting local people, eating local food, and shopping till we were dropping and it has been amongst two of our best days so far. It was a brilliant place that I would highly recommend to anyone that likes the cobbled streets Italy, Greece and Spain.
Next up was Pushkar. Bit of a boring place, but with a good atmosphere, not much to say really, as neither of us can really remember it!!!
One thing I will say actually before I carry on, is that buildings, temples, or whatever,don't really bother me and Bridie, after a few, apart from the Taj and a few forts, we want to see real India not boring buildings that are a billions of years old.... so that's why we haven't said much about the temples etc that we have seen in many of the places mentioned. A lot of them are famous for buildings but we are really not interested.... sorry!
Jaipur...... some people might like it......but we HATED IT!!! The hassle, the industriousness of it, everything, yuck yuck YUCK. We just really have nothing good to say about the city of Jaipur, it was CRAP! The people would not leave us alone, to the point where in rickshaws they we causing road blockages and crashes. It really was like an industrial tip it was s***. On the plus side, the second day of being there we went to a place called the "Lost City Of Hanuman" Which was basically a really old decrepit temple, in the middle of no where, that the people had given to the monkeys. Lets just say, I have never ever seen so many wild monkeys, free, and really cared about, ever. That all I have to say for our 2 days in Jaipur.....But the monkey place was great!
A few hundred kilometers north from Jaipur, was a national park called Rathambore. We went in search of wild tigers, and we were not disappointed. Within 5 meters of each other, we saw 2, beautiful,, wild, happy, sunbathing tigers. A dream.... that's all that needs to be said.
On the 12th day of our sacred time with Raj, we finished up in Agra, Home to the Taj Mahal. After a sad farewell and Raj getting a big tip, we embarked ourselves on seeing the Taj. All I can say, especially as generally we find buildings boring. The Taj is a vision of beauty. If love could talk through a building, the Taj Mahal would be it. The inside is a bit rubbish to be honest, but the outside way, way, lives up the the name.... a vision indescribable, when you know the true meaning of this building you are mesmerized by its beauty. A perfectly defined temple of love, perfectly symmetrical, perfectly detailed, with the most beautiful materials, this building is delight. We arrived at about 5 30, looked inside etc, then we were waited around for the sunset, we sat in the garden of it, as we would in Preston park, and enjoyed the beauty that was set upon our eyes, we watched the Taj turn pink with the sunset and just sat mesmerized by its true meaning. While we were there we had photos with no word of a lie, about 100 families who just wanted to shake our hand have a picture and talk. This was the only time people have generally just wanted to talk to us. It was a bit of a novelty I think, having two young English girls, at a place where India claims a fame with the western culture, home to a building where princess Diana and Queen Elizabeth, sat their Royal bottoms on the pure white chair in front of the Taj.
After a 12 hour sleeper train journey from Agra to Varanasi, we ended up at a very sweet hotel in the middle of confusing streets and foul smells, called the Shanty guesthouse (very suitable name), looking over the river Ganges, although the smells, mess etc were much to be desired we were situated in the perfect place. We took two boat rides, one at sunset and one at sunrise the following day, to watch the pilgrims, and local people, bathe and wash, do their laundry, party and set the deceased on fire into the Ganges. A very odd place, beautiful in its own right, especially if you watch the people, but you have to oversee some terrible sights and smells. The meaning of the place to the people is beyond words and you can understand why so many take the long pilgrimage to get here.
This is where we leave you now, we have a 30 hour train ride to Mumbai (Bombay) in the morning, so we will be sure to update you soon, hope this is not too deep for you all, I assure you my notes were far, far deeper, but I lighted it up as much as I could. I'm sure I have missed loads out but Iv got the most part of it there. Hope you are all well and good, love you all very much
Holly and Bridie xx
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