Into our third country on our itinerary, Cambodia. There's one reason that everybody comes to Cambodia and that is to see the magnificent "Angkor Wat" in Siem Reap. But we were saving this till last on our trip though "Campacia" (Cambodia) as the Khmer people call it. Phnom Penh was the first place we decided to visit after a pretty eventful 12 hour bus journey. Only 30 minutes from the border, to make things a lot easier at the crossing, the tour operator took all of our passports and $30 each before we set off and explained that he would personally process all of our visa's for entry into Cambodia, and we wouldn't even have to leave the bus, which is exactly what happened. We waited maybe for one hour then continued with our journey. It seemed that Cambodia was the poorer out of the three countries we'd visited with no towns or city's but just lots of flat land and rice paddies, wooden huts on stilts and farm land. A little way though the bus journey the driver decided to test out the breaks, with everybody shunting forward and a few "Ooooooohhhhh"'s, we just managed to luckily dodge out the way of a herd of cows crossing the road.... fortunately for those cows it wasn't to be the day they get run over by a bus.... but unfortunately for the next herd, one poor cow wasn't so lucky. After the first emergency stop, there was another about 3-4 minutes later, but this time as the breaks screeched, a big thud followed with a lot of grasps. I didn't see anything but definitely heard it. A few hours in we started to watch "an idiot abroad" on the laptop, which also interested a young boy who was also watching with his mum from the seats behind us. Knowing this Jeni decided that we should head to the back of the bus and put on a more suitable and lighthearted show for the kid so we could put the volume up. We started playing the animated film "Up" and going by his giggling he seemed to be enjoying it, only for a bus journey to end so we had to cut it short, but the mum was very appreciative with many thank you's. Finally arriving in Phnom Penh, the first thing I strangely noticed was the amount of cars that were driving around, a whole lot more than the usual for south east Asia. Surrounded by an army of tuk-tuk drivers, we decided to go with the charismatic "Bobby" who promised he was the best tuk-tuk driver in all of Asia with more than 100 years experience, how can you turn that sort of service down! So we jumped in and was taken to one of the main tourist streets and to a guesthouse called Golden Home Guesthouse. It turned out to be one the worst places we'd stayed, with no windows, high celling, really smelly bathroom and a hard bed. We'd already paid for two nights there so didn't have any choice but to just stick it out. We arranged with Bobby to taxi us around the next day for $15 to the "Killing Fields", the "S-21 Prison" and to a market, which he was happy to do. I knew that the next days activities were going to be a pretty grim experience.