Episode 5

On this bright and sunny morning we found ourselves anchored off Herald Island, a small island off the north east coast of Wrangel Is. and another place the crew had not seem properly before as again it is normally shrouded in fog and often had lots of ice around it. Sarah, our expedition ornithologist had counted 49 polar bears along the cliff face. This island doesn't have much in the way of beaches where we could make a shore landing. However, the cliffs on this south-western side are packed with nesting sea birds, all the usual species all with their fledglings just about ready to depart for their long journey southward. They would most likely be leaving in the next few days. The fledglings are as big as the adults only their juvenile plumage disguising them from their parents. Again we set off in the zodiacs and spent quite a long time observing the birds. L didn't get any photos mainly because the sea was far from calm and the zodiac bobbing up and down continually, no way could she find time to focus both her eyes and the camera. Then we came in a little closer heading towards a small beach where it was hoped we might make a short landing. However, we were too late, the polar bears had staked their claim earlier than us, five of them were enjoying the delights it had to offer, two of them were fast asleep on the sand. Just along from the sandy leach in some small coves, almost caves with overhanging roofs, we saw walrus haul-outs. Each small rock ledge was crowed with these wonderful creatures. The Russian rangers made sure we didn't come too close to the walrus as they panic very easily and will kill each other in the rush to get off the rocks and back into the water. L got a good view through her binoculars. All along the cliffs above we could see loads of polar bears going about their business. They can climb almost vertical cliffs and squat on tiny rock ledges barely big enough to fit their bottoms. Amongst them were some mothers with cubs, usually 2 cubs, about 8-9 months old now. We spent hours observing all these wonderful creature. The cliffs above the walrus and where the bears were the thickest were devoid of birds, they were situated further along the coast possibly because it was a warmer or more protected area of the food supply was better. The natural world is really astounding once you get away from all the human interference. Returning to Wrangel Is in the afternoon we anchored off Dragi Bay and were soon out in the zodiacs. This time without David as he didn't feel up to it again. He really didn't seem to be getting any better despite being dosed up with stuff provided by Suzi our doctor. L still had her streaming cold, that wasn't getting any better either. Although we did see a couple of polar bears on the cliffs here it was mainly the birds that we spent a long time watching. This part of the coast has a lot of offshore 'stacks' and these too were covered in bird life. L and I were in the zodiac with Howard and he took us cruising amongst the stacks then decided we should go further along and have a look around the next point. Well, what a decision that proved to be, we came around the point and were confronted with hundreds of walrus frolicking in the water. Quickly Howard radioed the other zodiacs and soon we were all there watching the walrus. We could get nearer to them as they were in the water. Soon they were popping up quite near us, two even cruising right alongside. Of course it was quite rough with the boat bobbing up and down and L really couldn't get much in the way of photos, though she did try. Sadly David missed this. Finally deciding it was time to head back towards the ship, quite a way we'd come, Howard took us on another cruise through narrow archways and around the sea stacks. Then someone on our zodiac spotted movement on shore and saw an arctic fox. So we stopped to watch this animal, then a second fox was spotted as it snatched a seabird standing on a rock. L only got to see one fox but the others watched both foxes as they climbed up an almost vertical gully to the cliff top where they disappeared. We were the only ones to see those foxes. Back on board we watched a documentary made by a Russian researcher who spent 17 summer seasons on Wrangel Island studying the polar bears. He only carries a pepper stray for protection and the only time he has ever that to use it was when he was making this film. Another very interesting film. Back in Doubtful Bay again, and this time it was far calmer. We visited a memorial to an early settler on the island, then came ashore where the settlement is located. Now the only residents are the rangers and some scientists. Once, in Soviet times it was a large village of 1500 or more people. Most making a living from hunting and fishing. Certainly the hunting would have been unsustainable in the long term. Now the Island is a nature reserve and the wildlife is flourishing, or seems to be. L and I again joined those doing the medium walk, and this time it took a far more leisurely pace. We looked about the ranger huts and equipment then headed off inland towards the airstrip. We hadn't gone very far when someone spotted a snowy owl. It was perched quite a way off and was watching us, but still it allowed us to get relatively near before flying off. We had only just set off again when another snowy owl was spotted, definitely a different bird, we would still see the other one. This one had it's back to us and also we had a piece of debris to hide behind as we sneaked up quite a bit closer. L even managed to get a photo, nothing great but you can see it's an owl, so I suppose that's something. Those on the long walk had seen 2 mush ox but not our snowy owls. Back at the shore those who stayed close had been consorting with the local spirits. Apparently one of the scientists had invited them in to partake of some of his own brews. Really hard liquor! David had given that a miss and gone on a zodiac cruise along the shore before returning to the ship Perhaps a shot or two of those spirits might have fixed him up proper, or finished him off completely. Our five overlanders had made it back safely after a great trip and we bid farewell to our Russian rangers, with big hugs all round. We also bid farewell to Wrangel Is. We are the last cruise boat this year to visit the island. © Lynette Regan September 14th 2017