Finally
we set out from Bishkek, again: We had been offered a ride to Osh in
an old Mercedes the boys had nicknamed 'goldilocks' because of the
gold colour. It wasn't in good mechanical condition according to
David, the clutch was slipping badly and the shock absorbers were
past their use by date so we had our fingers crossed that it would
get us to Osh. We weren't optimistic about it getting the boys
through the Pamir without giving them problems.


I
had quite a good seat in the middle in the back on the armrest
between D and L, not as good as my seat in Rosie the Rangie but at
least I wasn't left behind so I've been told I had better not
complain.

It
was a really hot day when we left mid morning. By the time we got to
the Osh turnoff near Kara-Balty another problem had presented itself. The
fuel pump seemed to overheat. We stopped and had some lunch at the
turnoff and let it cool down in some shade.

From
there on the climb starts for the pass at 3200m, starting around
900m. We did have a few stops on the way up but finally made it to
the top where the weather was much cooler and it was now downhill for
a good way. The view from the top was great.

We
seem to keep going down for a really long way and as it got late in
the day we kept an eye out for somewhere to stay. Stopped and got a
nice meal in a tiny village at the Talas/Tashkent turnoff. Here we were
told there was some hotel or guest house about 50k's further on, and
downhill all the way.

Well,
it was a little more than 50k but definitely not downhill all the way
as we climbed up and over another pass of around 3300m. It wasn't a
very long or steep climb, in fact we barely noticed it and in the
cool evening air the car run well. We had followed a narrow valley
upward with high mountains towering above us on both sides.

The
hotel we found looked to be brand new. Not much had yet been painted
and the walls of the room we had was bare chipboard. The bed frames
were made of saplings and tree branches. All very rustic. In the
dining room there were heaps of stuffed animals, doubt if there are
many of their species still roaming these mountains.


Overnight
there was a massive storm with very heavy rain and much thunder and
lightning. L, of course didn't hear a thing, she's as deaf as a post
these days, but everyone else heard it. In the morning L wondered
what was wrong with the septic system where the water was like liquid
mud.


Once
outside she realized that the stream that supplies the water to the
hotel, a rushing tumbling mountain stream with fairly clean water was
now a ragging torrent of water that resembled liquid mud. It had
very nearly broken it's banks.too, and scoured out the bank nearly as
far as where the cars were parked. A metre more and at least one car
could have been washed away.


After
breakfast we set off again and soon came to the first of many lakes.
They are all resevoirs, and sandwiched in steep mountains valleys.
Occassionaly the country would open out for a while and we saw some
agriculture, maize seemed to be the main crop. Saw a few vegetables
and a little pasture, and some cows and a few goats and sheep.


Passed
through numerous villages and a few bigger towns. A couple of the
reservoirs have hydro stations on them. Crossed a number of lower
passes between 1500m and 2500m, as we kept inside Kyrgyzstan circling
around the top end of the Fergano valley that runs down into
Uzbekistan.


This
valley is a very rich agricultural region that supplies much of the
fresh produce that is grown in Central Asia. Most is grown under
irrigation from these reservoirs and many more that were built during
the Soviet era and are the cause of the demise of the Aral Sea.

Late
in the day we arrived in Osh without any more car problems. We all
stayed at the Osh guest house. This is a popular backpacker hostel
that reminded Lyn of the 'rabbit warren' type hostels she used to
stay in in Hong Kong. It's not too bad she supposes but there is at
least one much better hostel in Osh. Breakfast was included but L
isn't sure that was a plus, apart from the tea and coffee. Cold
chips appeared a couple of mornings, not the best way to start the
day.

Never
the less, it was a place to organise a trip into the Pamir. So my
lot decided they would go by 4 x 4 with a driver. D did consider
just hiring a vehicle but after looking those over that came and went
from the hostel he decided it would be best to have a driver too.
They use Toyota and Mitsubishi vehicles and can carry 4 passengers,
sometimes 6 with two seats in the back facing inwards, all gear on
the roof rack. Thinking to share the cost a notice was put on the
board for a couple of people to go with us. During the few days we
spent in Osh waiting a few other groups arrived and departed but we
couldn't get one or two to come with us. So in the end we decided to
set off on our own, to hell with the cost. It wasn't cheap.

Meanwhile,
the boys in the Mercedes had found a couple of other young chaps and
had set off the afternoon following our arrival.

A
couple of days later we heard that the car had been towed back 180k's
from where it had broken down, the clutch had given out, in no-mans
land. Not exactly sure where but presume it was going up the 4200m
pass, the top of which is the actual border between Kyrgyzstan and
Tajikistan. The Kyrgyz border post is before you climb up the pass.
We didn't see the boys, but hope for their sake that they managed to
get the car repaired and continue their trip, they only have a couple
more weeks.


Just
minutes before setting out a couple of other young chaps asked if
they could come with us just as far as Murgab, so it was a full car
that left Osh.

To
get us a bit used to the altitude of the Pamir, the first day we
travelled to Sary Tash and Sary Mogul then on towards the base camp
for those wishing to climb Pik Lenin, one of the highest mountains in
Kyrgyzstan. At 3500m we stayed in a small yurt camp. It was
somewhat basic with no shower but at least the toilet was usable.
The yurt had a fuel stove for heating that was much needed in the
evening as it got quite cold. The dining room was in a big shipping
container, how the hell did they get that here?

In
the morning Pik Lenin was cloud free for a short time so we got a
good view of the mountain. There was frost on the ground around the
yurt and both my lot were feeling the altitude. Didn't bother me in
the slightest.

Next
day we set off back through Sary Mogul and on towards the Tajik
border.


This
region is a tri border area with a crossing into China to the east
and we found ourselves running alongside the big fence that is the
Chinese border. Passed through the Kyrgyz side easily enough, had a
bit of a wait and a group of Polish on motorbikes were just ahead of
us. They had stayed at the same hostel as us in Osh and set out a bit
earlier than us on the same morning.


Apart
from a great many on motorbikes there are a huge number of cyclists,
usually travelling in two and threes. These are supper fit people of
all ages and nationalities.


My
lot really admire all these travellers both young and not so young,
they are getting out and having adventures, sometimes on very limited
funds, and doing something other than popping kids and whinging
about the mortgage, and their boss. Age range 18 to 80's. My lot
being among the more senior, though I'm only a youngster myself.

We
managed to get through the Tajik border reasonably quickly, the
Polish were still all waiting when we left. We continued on downhill
and soon got views of the big lake, Karakul. The word kul neans lake
in Kyrgyz and perhaps to in Tajik.

It
was only about 3pm when we pulled into our overnight stop at a small
homestay in the village of the same name.

These
homestay places are really peoples homes when they have an extra room
they can let out to travellers such as ourselves. It's often just
one room where the travellers all sleep. Each bed is a sort of 3cm
thick wool cushion/matress laid on the floor as a matress with
another wool filled duvet for covering. It's reasonably comfortable
and warm enough. At the higher altitudes where it gets cold at night
they do have a stove to warm the place. the toilets seem to be all
very clean even if many are very basic, and outside the house, so a
good walk in the middle of the night. This homestay at Karakol had a
basic shower too. It was in an outside banya where the water is
heated in a big drum and can be used as a sauna if required. For my
lot it was a case of filling the bowl and using a dipper to toss the
water over themselves.


There
was a bit of electricity in the evening but the light wasn't bright
enough to read by so after a good meal of soup and a rice dish with
some fruit after it was an early night for all.

L
had been for a walk around the village and found that it seem fairly
deserted, there were lots of buildings but few were occupied. She and
I went down to the lake where we read a sign that said it covered
380sq k's and was up to 283m deep. It could be somewhat brakish as
we have seen many white patches that are salt where the water has
flowed during spring melt.

David
was feeling the altitude worse than L and they both had headaches and
were a bit breathless, me, I was fine.

The
next day we crossed a pass at around 4657m. again we stopped at the
top where photos were taken all around. the scenery is stunning. The
mountains are very stark with just a bit of snow on the highest ones,
at around 5000m and above. No vegetation at all, even in the valleys
there is little vegetation. Some salt bush grows near stream banks
and lake shore. We saw just a couple of yaks off in the distance and
a few goats near villages.


Our
driver took us on a side trip to another lake, Rang kul where we met
up with the other group who had stay overnight at the same place.
They all shared a watermelon while I just had to sit and watch.
There was thick marshy vegetation around this lake that was alive
with tiny birds. L caught the merest glimpse of them as she wandered
off, but not enough to describe them. Even she could hear them all
around her.

In
Murgab we stayed in the hotel, expensive for what it is, nowhere near
as nice as the hotel back in Samara that was somewhat cheaper.


Murgab
is the biggest town in the Pamir, it has a small bazaar where we went
for a look. It consisted of a row of shipping containers with either
a small stall out the front or a shop inside. Basic necessitites
were available including mobile phone SIM cards for the only network
in the area. there wasn't any electricity so no refrigeration in
this bazaar even though some of the places were selling sausage and
yogurt. We gave both a miss although most of the sausage you can buy
here is of a dried salami type but not pig meat, this is a
predominately Islamic region. Overall it was very hot, very dry,
very dusty. very few people and moving about, and no real photo
opportunity for me.

There
isn't any internet here except through the mobile phone network, must
be one of the few places in the world where WIFI isn't available.
Still in the hotel restaurant my lot enjoyed a bowl of very nice soup
and in a little snack bar outside bought a nice ice-cream. They say
it 'hit the spot' on an otherwise very hot afternoon at around 3500m.
I didn't even get a lick! Haven't got a tongue:

Next
day it was off over yet another pass, 4300+m but my lot by this are
starting to get a bit used to the altitude and have lost their
headaches. Always the high stark mountains tower above us is pastel
shades from pale yellow through orange to red. With some dark grey
streaks and lines where the water has flowed. That gives some of
them a stripy effect. Almost beside the road our dirver pointed out
a tiny lake, pond really, that is a brilliant blue colour, a cobolt
blue. It is striking! We stopped for photos of course.


In
the early afternoon we arrived at our home stay at Bulunkul, another
lake and the village that is situated a couple of k's from the shore
with high mountains behind. Because it was nice and early in the
afternoon our two fellow passengers, Alex and Justin, both fit young
blokes, decided to climb up to the top of the high peak behind us,
there was some snow at the top. Meanwhile we went off on another
side trip to another lake just a few K's away.


This
lake has some nice shale beaches and later when L tested the water it
was quite warm at the edge.


It
seems that a National Park has been set up just recently and my lot
had to pay several dollars in local currency to enter this park. It
was all a bit of a take really, even though it's official. Once
inside the area all we did was drive down to the lake shore and get
out and walk around a bit. We could see where people had camped along
the shore. Don't think they will be doing so after they hear about
this charge. Can do the same thing further back and not pay
anything. Our driver seemed to be taken by surprise with the charge
but doesn't speak enough English to discuss this with us first. Put
it down to experience L says. On our way back from the lake we did
see a big fox. It was a lovely looking animal with a very good
brush.

Once
back in the village my lot had a bit of a walk around though we
didn't see much except heaps of kids playing along the tiny streams
and marsky ground. A few goats around and just on dusk a couple of
yaks came in. This village is the coldest in Tajilistan in the
winter, there is a weather station here.

My
lot were served their dinner about 7.30pm, they had waited a while
for the two climbers to return but then went ahead with out them. It
was 9.30pm when the climbers arrived back fairly exhausted but
exhilarated as they had reached the summit of that high peak at over
5100m. They had done the last 40 minutes of so with torch light and
had run out of water. Good job they hadn't got stuck up there
overnight.

This
'homestay' didn't have the luxury of a banya or even some place to
have a decent wash. It is something that the boys would really have
appreciated after their climb and like most people my lot like at
least a good wash before turning in for the night. On the other hand
the meals here were really nice, especially considering that there is
nowhere to obtain fresh produce and supplies would be hard to some
by. We got what the locals eat, fresh curd and top of the milk and
fresh bread with homemade cherry and apricot jam. Lots of tea, both
green and black is usually on offer and its good for the altitude,
does wonders for any headache apparently.

Leaving
Bulunkul the next day we returned to the Pamir highway before turning
onto the dirt/gravel road that would take us through the Wakhan
valley. We climbed over yet another high pass at around 4200m, no
headaches now for anyone. Then we came to the first of our check
points where our GBAO permits were checked before we entered the
Wakhan valley. The high mountains now are part of the Hindukush,
those across the river are in Afghanistan while those really high
snowy peaks we could see off in the distance are in Pakistan.


We
did see just a few camels on the Afgan side of the river. We crossed
over yet another pass then wound our way down the narrow gravel road
that wends its way around the steep side of a narrow valley with a
rushing mountain stream far far below. This was a spectacular drive
and we had many photo stops but my presence seemed to have been
forgotton. Did I mention that I had quite a nice seat perched up
behind L.


It
was mid afternoon when we arrived in Langar where we actually enter
the Wakhan valley. Who should we see at our overnight stay but Daivd
and Theo with the gold Mercedes.

It
seems that they had been very lucky with their clutch and had got it
replaced with a new one in just a few hours at a town outside Osh.
However, they still had other problems they had been battling with,
and the car was presently at some mechanical workshop getting
something done with it's exhaust. Pedro, the Portuguese guy we had
first met back in Bishkek was here too having rejoined them when they
got to Murgab. It was good to see that they had at least got this
far.

There
are some petroglyph high above this small town that is perched itself
high above the river. A few guys had walked up to them and seen some
Marco Polo sheep, the native sheep of the region. Those told us it
was a very steep rough climb and coming down it was quite difficult
because of the loose sand and gravel so my lot took the decision not
to go. Our two climbers, Justin and Alex did set out later but
didn't find the petroglyph nor did they see the sheep. My lot and
me, well we did go looking for the shop but didn't find it either,
nor did the others.

All
around this village there are small fields that are watered by small
chanels that divert the water that comes from the mountains. We saw
barley and potatoes growing mostly but also cabbage and just a few
broad beans with the odd sunflower tossed in for good measure.

Next
morning Theo from the Mercedes was quite ill, but they can't spend
another day here, they had already spent one while some work was done
on the car so they had to set off regardless. We hope that things
went well for them and they got to Murgab that day as they had
planned, we last saw them heading the wrong way, but perhaps that was
just to find fuel as it's difficult to find in this region.


Carrying
on down the valley we would sometimes drive close to the river and it
would be very barren on the hillside above us or we would be passing
some small pocket of fertile land where crops were growing or animals
grazing. We saw quite a few goats and sheep and some cattle. We are
now below the 3000m mark so there are no Yaks. The crops are the
usual barley and potatoes mostly with some vegetables and a tiny plot
of lucerne probably grown as fodder for the cattle. Some of those
cows were Jerseys; they are a dairy breed producing milk rich with
cream.


Higher
up on the mountainside swhere there are small pockets of fertile land
it would be farmed, so patches of green could be seen here and there
high above.

From
the road we got a better view of the farms on the Afghan side of the
river where the pockets of green were separated by the barren ridges
of the mountainside. A road on the other side paralleled the one we
were on yet in the two days we travelled down the valley we only saw
one vehicle using it and a couple of people walking along in high vis
jackets. Also, from what we could see there wasn't much in the way
of villages. On our side of the river there was some large villages
and towns.

Quite
a way up a steep mountainside we came to a hot spring where we all
took a dip in segregated groups, men only and women only. I found
myself the only stuffed toy amongst a bunch of men about to emerse
themselves in the hot water. Under strict instructions not to get
wet I just had to sit and watch as David, Justin and Alex enjoyed a
soak.


L
was off with the women is another room, not the cave that us fellows
were in, where she was the only westerner amongst a group of local
women. About 20mins in the water is enough:

On
our way up to this hot spring we took time to explore the ruin of a
12th century fort that stands on a pinnacle of land
overlooking the valley below. The view was great. This is the best
preserved such fort in the valley, many are nothing more than a pile
of rubble.

The
villages are quite pretty with their white painted houses many with
blue trim and the lovely tree lined streets, mostly tall poplars, but
there are many other species of trees too.


Mostly
we had just missed the apricots, they seem to have finished. At
Langar a large bowl full was placed on the table for all to share but
further down the valley they seemed to have finished. L was very
disappointed as she just loves them and scoffed a great many at
Langar. The further we went down the valley the more apricot
orchards we saw but not a fresh apricot in sight.


At
Dashi we left Justin and Alex at a homestay place. They were going
to head up a valley from there and attempt to climb a 6000m peak if
it wasn't too snow /ice covered. They didn't have the specialized
equipment to cross icefields.

Iskhashim
is the largest town in this part of the valley. It's quite a pretty
place with tall poplars lining the streets and lush green fields all
around.


We
stayed at a homestay outside the village where we watched the ladies
of the house bake fresh bread for our evening meal, not that I eat
any but I did check our the bread oven without getting too close. L
made sure of that.

As
it turned out the bread was the best part of the meal that night.
The soup wasn't much, some goat or sheep bone with lots of skin, no
meat, and a couple of potatoes and only the bread. Every other night
my lot had got another course after the soup, of rice, potatoes or
pasta, but not here. Fortunately it was a big enough meal for my two
but if Justin and Alex had still been with us then they would both
have been left very hungry. Even at Bulunkul and Karakul where
supplies would be difficult to come by a very filling main course was
offered. Frequently L's share was consumed by the boys.


As
we drove along this road we saw several groups of women and children
washing carpets in the small mountain streams where they spread
across the road. The carpet would be laid out on the tarmac in the
water and soap powder sprinkled over the carpet then it would be
attacked by stiff straw brooms and scrubbed clean. The system works
well and all the motorists take care to avoid running over the
carpet.


In
the bigger cities they have garages where they use high pressure
water cleaners to do the same job. It seems to be big business in
the summer time. Such carpets can be seen on all floors and hung
around the walls. They are made of wool mostly, and are a form of
insulation against the frigid winters of the region. In all houses
ones shoes are left in the entrance so only bare feet paddle across
the carpets, still, those feet can be quite dirty.

Further
along and up a side valley we came to another hot spring. This one
is very hot and over the millennia it has flowed over the rocks and
left a thick coating of calcite resembling stalactites. L's pool was
an outside one and extremely hot, while D's was just as hot but
inside, this time L had the more picturesque setting. Me, I was left
in the car this time.


Neither
of them was long here because the water was just too hot to linger
in, even so they both came back resembling cooked lobsters, not that
I've ever seen a cooked lobster, that is: They had both been advised
that 10 minutes in these pools was the absolute limit at one time. L
found that many of the women covered themselves in this white calcite
mud, let it dry, then washed it off before entering the pool again.
If it was meant to be some sort of beaut treatment then L should have
given it a go, she could do with a good bit of beauty treatment. On
second thoughts, perhaps its best she didn't, can't have her better
looking than me, now can I.

By
the way, at both these hot springs the men wear swimmers in their
section but the women all seem to go naked, think that's why I was
sent off with the men.


Finally
we came to Khorog the largest city in the region. It doesn't seem to
have a great deal to offer the travel weary except for a really nice
guest house and a very popular Indian restaurant. My lot enjoyed a
very nice meal while I just watched. Although neither of them are
fans of Indian food they did enjoy this one.

Despite
still being at around 2000m it was relentlessly hot so a walk around
wasn't attempted until late in the afternoon. The streets are tree
lined and relatively clean as we have found most places. There was
plenty of rubbish piled up around overflowing rubbish bins but
elsewhere was clean. It seems that a better garbage collection and
disposal system is urgently needed.


From
Khorog we travelled back towards Murgab on the Pamir highway. Don't
get carried away by the name. It is mostly a very broken narrow
strip of tarmac with some long sections of gravel. This route
suffers many landslides and washouts and can often be closed for days
at a time. We were lucky enough not to encounter any holdups.

We
came to another hot spring where there is a sanatorium. Now that's a
fine word for what we encountered. L supposes the building was fine,
it could have dated from the Soviet period, we have seen similar in
Russia. Inside was quite OK and a variety of therapies were on offer
or one could just have a soak if that's all one wanted. Because it
was a sanatorium though it was much more expensive and not really
worth the money for my lot to just spend 10 minutes in the hot water.
The cost was based on people spending hours at the place. Unlike
the other springs where people just come for a hot bath.


What
really took their breath away literally was the loo. Stuck, and just
as well it was, well away from the main building in a far corner of
the yard, it was a small mud brick hut with the most basic of toilets
that hadn't been cleaned in many a long year. It's the worst loo
since the National Park in the Urals and one not to be encountered a
second time.

As
we travelled over a 4200+ pass and along a plateau region just under
the 4000m mark we passed a large group of cyclists who were peddling
along without any gear what-so-ever. They must have had some sort of
support vehicle somewhere we think although we didn't see one. They
didn't even appear to have any water or snacks with them and here,
despite the altitude it was still very hot and my lot are always
thirsty as they seem to dehydrate very quickly. There were also some
touring cyclists who were packed up to the hilt, hope they didn't
have to end up supplying those others with snacks and water.


After
crossing another pass at above 4200m we soon came to the Wakhan
valley turnoff we had taken a few days ago. A few hours later we
were back in Murgab for the night.

The
following day we returned to Osh driving though rain most of the
trip. It had rained heaviily in Murgab overnight and we splashed
through big puddles for some way outside the town. On the high up
slopes we could see a fresh dusting of snow that got thicker as the
morning wore on. We passed through both the border posts quickly and
easily, there was almost no other traffic around at the time.

It
had been a really good trip and we had a very nice driver Daniya who
did his best to ensure we saw as much as we could.


Back
now in Osh: My lot feel that they really should make an effort and
go and visit other places but somehow they can't seem to get
motivated in the heat. The main mode of transport seems to be mini
buses, mini being the operative word here, they are really very small
and mostly packed with people and cargo. Very hot and stuffy and
not at all comfortable for a long trip.

Oh
yes, David and Theo in the mercedes made to back to Bishkek on time
and last we heard were trying to sell it there, they didn't have much
time to do so as they were due to fly out on the morning of the 12th
August. We wish them well.

L
has been battling with a tour company trying to organize an LOI
(letter of invitation) in order to get an Uzbek visa. Every time she
submitted the information the girl at the other end would come back a
day or two later with another question or clarification on some point
or other. It all should have been submitted before we set off for
the Pamir and L believed it was but when we got back she found more
questions had arisen. Hopefully it has been submitted by now. L
certainly won't recommend this company to anyone. Pedro had, by
accident come across a guest house in Tashkent that organizes LOI's
much cheaper and it seems with far less fuss. But as L had already
paid this company she stuck with them. Let's hope it was worth it.


It
seems that Uzbekistan is almost closing down for two weeks from the
20th August to 5th September. It is the 25th
anniversary of their independence from the Soviet Union. All such
things as visas and LOI's are not being issued and it seems to be the
opinion of many travellers that the border is completely closed, no
entering or exiting during that time. Presumably the airport isn't
going to close down, so those entering that way should be OK, but,
hell, who knows!


© Lynette Regan 12th August
2016