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We met Jerome and Philippe for breakfast - no matter how many times we checked the weather forecast it consistently predicted heavy rain all over Western Canada and the Northern Cascades in Washington, USA. In the end we decided to proceed with Chris’s carefully researched plan A - A long drive south over the Canada / USA border to Mount Baker in the Northern Cascades, and hike up to the Hidden Lake lookout with a view to staying overnight in the fire lookout hut!
A crazy plan on a wet weekend, but skin is waterproof. Laura was an absolute star, offering to loan me not only her thermarest mat, but also her sleeping bag and some wax ear plugs!!
We did a supermarket trip to buy provisions for the trip. Dried fruit, tea, fig rolls, energy bars, soup, porridge, cous cous and vegetables...
The we set off south in Millie with high spirits, excited by the adventure that lay ahead. Long delays at the border control, followed by still further delays as we were asked to ‘switch in your hazard warning lights please and pull in over there, sir’ before queuing again inside the building as we waited to be approved and issued with our I-94 documents... Finally, after almost two hours, we paid our six dollars for the required document and set off again!
Chris was feeling rather dejected by the delays and length of the journey into Washington but all thoughts dispelled as we set off at about 4pm to hike the amazing trail towards the Hidden Lake Fire Lookout.
The path started in dense forest, opening out onto alpine meadows, still full of colourful flowers. After hiking up for a while the rain started to ease and we climbed on up the increasingly steep and rocky path into spectacular high alpine terrain where the clouds parted to reveal fantastic distant views to the steep and rocky summit, and out over the Northern Cascades. Essentially one of the best walks ever - it had everything - except sunshine!
The path became steeper still as we continued to meet hikers returning from the summit full of excitement and enthusiasm and tales of snow at the top. Some hikers were improbably dressed in jeans and trainers, already freezing cold and wet, but still very happy!
The final ascent was over rocks and boulders and a small plateau with shallow lakes and a few small bushes as we contemplated where we would camp overnight should the fire lookout be fully occupied...
There were breathtaking views down over the hidden lake before the final scramble over large boulders to the summit, where we found the fire lookout already occupied by a lovely couple from Seattle - happy to share not only their overnight accomodation, but their whisky and their riddles. They were great company!
Everyone changed into dry clothing and hung up wet things in hope of drying.
Jerome and Chris set to work to prepare dinner - pea and ham soup followed by vegetables with couscous. We dined happily and companionably by candlelight.
After dinner, we chatted the the Seattle couple and they shared their whisky with us, while we played Bananagrams on the hut floor!
Then it was time to settle down on the floorboards to sleep - fully clothed with two pairs of socks, hats, sleeping bag liners and thermarests. Despite this and Lauras generous loan I was only just warm enough, and I think we all spent a fitful night as everyone took it in turns to snore or lie awake, wondering who else was awake.
We awoke to clear skies and distant views of the Hidden Lake through the windows of the hut. The view must be astounding in good weather. The Seattle guy set off to collect water from the lake. By the time he returned, clouds had gathered and it was snowing steadily. The advertised outside toilet was some distance away over the rocks and was invisible in amongst the snow and clouds, meaning that we had to improvise toilet arrangements with extra care taken over the slippery snow covered rocks. There was a compromise to be struck between the privacy of a snowy and windy, rocky ledge overlooking a precipitous drop or the shelter and relative safety of the stacks of boulders nearer the hut.
Jerome and Chris were back at the stove preparing tea and amazingly delicious hot porridge with dried fruit and we tucked in gratefully before we packed our bags, putting on our warmest waterproof outfits and saying goodbye to our new friends and room mates for a night. We felt more than a little daunted, setting off into the driving snow, downhill over the slippery boulders. This was a hazardous expedition but we all survived, even Philippe with his injured knee and ankle. Gradually we came down over the rocks and onto the path, looking back up, it was hard to believe that we had spent the night in such a remote spot - the hut now being invisible behind the rocky peak and covered in cloud.
We continued down past the area where some people had camped overnight and were glad that we had been lucky enough to be in the fire lookout.
Definitely 24 hours outside most people's comfort zone but so exhilarating and so memorable.
As we walked down through the alpine area the weather started to clear and we could see beautiful distant views as they appeared and disappeared between the drifting clouds. Everything looked very green and fresh after all the rain and there were loads of colourful wild flowers.
We finally made it back to the van late morning and stopped at a nearby diner for apple pie and coffee, followed by a picnic lunch in the forest. Then we left Philippe to continue his exploration of the Northern Cascades and headed home over the border to Vancouver, entertaining ourselves with a game of Solo whilst waiting at the border control... again.
Back at home Laura had supper all ready for us - baked salmon and banana cake.... followed by the Maltesers and tape measure game prior to an early night, in Chris’s gloriously comfortable bed.
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