Thursday 29th November
Torres del Paine
A cloudy start to the day. We had considered an early start and guiding ourselves to the 'Torres', as it is the most popular trek and can be very busy, but Val had reassured us that this would not be a problem and even changed her schedule to lead our guiding group again for the day!
Another excellent buffet breakfast, and having over eaten once again we met up with the group and were introduced to Pablo, our second guide for the day. He appeared slightly anxious, but this was only his 3rd outing as a guide. He was very knowledgable but his English was not quite as fluent - it would often take several re-phrasings of a question and even the odd bit of 'Spanglish' before his eyes would light up when he finally understood our question, to which he usually had the answer! We asked the name of a stunning red flower by the trail to which he replied "Torrent flower" ; the guidebook later confirmed this to be the 'waterfall' plant !
The trail to the base of the Torres started in a more challenging way than yesterday’s French Vslley hike, and the group were soon peeling off layers as we sweated up the first section. The sun had come out and for once there was no breeze, allowing annoying clouds of flies to target the sweaty hikers. Any onlooker would have been bemused by all the sudden swipes and slaps that were enacted to stop them landing!
The trail was more exposed than the French Valley as it passed over fine granite moraine, particularly along ‘windy pass’ where there was a steep drop off into the Valley which would have been worrying (terrifying) in high wind, but no sign of that today.
First stop was the Chilano refuge after about 1.5 hrs. This was a beautiful spot beside the cascading stream, with picnic benches and banos. Ideal for our morning break.
We had just decided that the target bird for the morning would be a Torrent duck - when Kathy spotted one dozing on a tree trunk in the middle of the water, head tucked under its wing. Its mate was spotted further upstream in the sun, living up to its name paddling away and diving in the torrent of pure crystal clear water cascading over the granite boulders.
We chatted to our fellow trekkers as we wound our way through old nortifagus forest. They were great company and despite our rather precious anxiety about sharing this beautiful remote trail with others, their presence actually made the whole experience even better!
There was an Irishman Ciaran and his lovely Scottish wife Maura who live in Edinburgh, an American couple from Minnesota with their son who had been at university in Valparaiso, and an Indian couple who now lived in Winnipeg.
We did pass some other groups on the trail but there were very few people about as we had the advantage of starting the trail directly from our hotel, whereas other guides groups had a later start and a drive to the start point down the road!
The last hour of the route ascends steeply up the moraine, gaining some 400m in altitude. The group wound its way up the zigzag path between the boulders like a coiled spring, the guide at the front stopping when we became too spaced out- only to set off again as soon as the tail-enders caught up.
The last section involved some easy scrambling over rocks and boulders.
Layers of clothing were added again as we approached the viewpoint, the wind having got up and a few spots of rain were starting to fall.
The massive granite towers of the Torres made a formidable backdrop to the glacial lake. The clouds swirled around the peaks and the occasional patch of blue sky would appear and then vanish once more. We tucked into our box lunches of humus and a beef chibatta. Pablo then opened his rucksack and produced cans of beer, fruit kebabs, cheese and calafate fruit cake, biscuits and brownies- a very welcome surprise.
We all tucked in and enjoyed a shared cup of Mate tea, sitting around a large flat rock that served well as a table, looking up at the massive granite towers in front of us.
Most people donned waterproofs before setting off on the return journey down the steep path. Within minutes, however we were stopping to strip off as the rain vanished, the grey clouds vanished and the sun came out - transformed in a matter of ten minutes!
Typically we looked back after walking down hill a short distance to see the previously obscured towers flooded by sunlight!
Val led the descent at a sedate pace and we followed, spotting At the Chicano refuge we came across baqueanos loading up horses to descend from the hill. They patiently stood still allowing the beret, boot and cummerbund-wearing men to tighten the girth straps that secured clam nets of cargo hanging from hooks on the saddles. Our guides informed us that they would carry up to 50kg. They later passed us on the trail - each mounted horseman leading 4 or 5 laden horses at a good pace. Val informed us that all the horses became sick last year, so to keep the refuge supplied, the guides and baqueanos hiked the supplies up the mountain- for an appropriate fee per kg load of course!
We reached the hotel at about 5.30 pm and, after tipping the guides and sharing a hug, retired to the spacious bar for a refreshing Pisco Sour with our new friends.
After hearing the experiences of our fellow guests who had partaken of the 'lamb barbecue', we were a little hesitant as we approached the octagonal room containing a central fire pit, with the familiar skewered lamb angled over the embers. The room was hot and smokey, but in a welcoming and appetising way. The waiting staff were wearing traditional baqueanos dress and were as friendly as usual.
We were the first to arrive and seated ourselves on sheepskins to enjoyed a glass of wine and hot empanadas from the oven. The remaining diners appeared a bit later, a large tour group of Swedes looking somewhat serious and chatting in Scandinavian tones amongst themselves. At this point we wondered if we had made a bad choice... The last place was taken next to us by an athletic looking weather-wrinkled smiley swede who introduced himself as Bo.
The vertically spit roasted lamb was carved by one of the chefs and platters of meat over charcoal burners (metal bowls filled with embers taken from the fire!) placed in front of each group. The platter was loaded with chunks of tender lamb, beef steaks, chicken drumsticks and spicy sausage. Baked potatoes in foil, a selection of sauces and dressings, and lettuce and tomato salad completed the spread.
Bo turned out to be the tour guide for the Swedish group. He lives in Stockholm. Following an oil disaster he had worked in Alaska for a university for 3 years monitoring the effects of the pollution on the flora and fauna. This data was to be used in a trial against the company - but in fact they settled out of court.
He now works as a freelance naturalist guide - taking tours walking and wildlife spotting all over the world!
We chatted and exchanged tales of Madagascar, Galapagos, New Zealand, Italy, Svalbard, Sweden, Sardinia, Antartica and Alaska.
Pudding was semolina reminiscent of school dinners - but with a red wine sauce!
Chilean Carmenere and Cabernet Sauvignon washed it down and we retired to the bar for a final Pisco Sour or two with our new and charismatic Scottish friends before our departure in the morning.