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April 19, 2024, Phnom Pehn, Cambodia
This blog was difficult to write and I have included details that many people may not want to read. There is a warning half way through my comments on April 20 to this effect.
We left the ship on the second day in Bangkok to travel to Cambodia on a four-day three-night overland trip. We meet our group in the cruise terminal along with our guide, Chon who will be will us for the entire trip.. To our surprise only nine passengers are on the tour.
Our overland tour included an extra day while the overland tour going just to Angkor Wat had three buses and sixty people.
Bangkok's International Airport is very large but the check in process as well as clearing security went smoothly.
The flight to Phnom Pehn is only 50 minutes but during this time the crew provided a meal which both Janice and I declined to have. You would never see a meal or even drinks offered when the flight is this short in Canada or the United States.
Arriving in Phnom Pehn were greeted by our Cambodian guide, Sam who will also be with us for our time in his country. He collected all our passports and arrival documentation for the custom officials to process our Visas.
Some facts about Cambodia:
· Phnom Pehn population is 3 million with the entire country's population is 17 million
· 65% of the population is under 35
· Currency is the Riel where the conversion rate is 4,000 Riels to 1 USD
· USD is widely used throughout the country. Government employees are paid in USD.
· Cambodians think of themselves as Khmer
· The national flag of has two colours blue for the top and bottom while the red middle includes the Angkor Wat Temple shown in white.
· A second flag is recognized and used is the Royal Standard. This flag is the official flag of the country's monarch.
The colours on the Cambodia flag represent the following:
· Blue - bravery of the Cambodian people as well presenting the dominant religion, Buddhism. It also represents a sense of brotherhood, cooperation, and unity among the Cambodian people
· White - represents the country's religious beliefs and the virtue of purity.
Our hotel for the next two nights (April 19-20) is the Rosewood at Phnom Pehn. All staff would greet us with a customary bow as a show of respect which we would return to them.
Check in was on the 35th floor with our room on the 26th floor. The room was enormous. The bathroom is almost as large as our entire cabin. We were on our own tonight for dinner. The choice was the Hard rock Café.
April 20
Today is a scorer with temperatures hovering around 41C or 105F.
Our first stop is to the Royal Palace and home of The King (he is not married and used to be Buddhist monk) and the Queen Mother. He is 73 years old. When the king's standard (flag) is flying then you know that he is in residence. This is just like Buckingham Palace when King Charles (it still strange to call him King) is in residence then the King's standard flies over the Palace.
At the time of our visit the entrance to the main hall's steps were lined with military on either side of the steps. It was a dress rehearsal for when dignitaries come to the Palace to pay their respect to the King.
On the grounds a silver and white steel building stands out from the rest of the grounds as it was a gift from France and Napolean III.
Most of the buildings prohibited the use of photos when inside.
While driving to our second stop a question was asked about the landmines that still exist from the war. Our guide, Sam indicated that it may take another five years to remove these.
WARNING: this section may be difficult to read but it is an important part of Cambodia's past. Something that should never be forgotten and should never happen again in the world. Unfortunately, the world does not seem to learn about the past. We are visiting the Phnom Penh Killing Fields also known as the Choeung EK Genocidal Centre. The Cambodian government has built this centre as a memorial to the thousands of Cambodians killed during the regime of the Khmer Rouge. Upon entering the grounds, we watched a short film on the invasion of Phenom Penh by the Khmer Rouge. This was not going to be a good day. The rest of the day dealt with the Khmer Rouge and the atrocities committed by this government of the day.
Estimates range from 1.5 million to 2 million deaths, but some say as high as 3 million people perished. A whole generation was lost during the reign of the Khmer Rouge. Children, women men, politicians, military, professional people (doctors, lawyers professors) were all killed. All schools were closed, hospitals, and temples were either destroyed or closed.
Its leader Pol Pot (real name Saloth Sar) was leader of the Khmer Rouge communist party that reigned the country from April 1975 until January 1979.
As the Vietnam War was coming to an end Cambodia was either Red (Khmer Rouge Communist) or Blue (Khmer Bleu Democratic). On April 17,1975 the Khmer Rouge invaded Phnom Pehn and captured the city. The Khmer Rouge broadcasted to the people that the US was resuming bombing of Cambodia (false) and that the people should escape to the country. Those fleeing were captured and tortured for information before being executed. They stayed in power until Liberation Day January 7,1979.
News of mass graves found was announced shortly after Liberation Day. While walking over this area you could see pieces of clothing worned ?? by the deceased laying in the ground. as a reminder of what happened here. When the rains come to this area pieces of clothing still in the ground come to the surface. We could also see pieces of human bones lying around as a reminder of the atrocities committed by the Khmer Rouge.
A stupa was built as a memorial for those bodies found here. Before entering each of us was given an incense stick to burn and offer up a pray along with a flower. Inside there are seventeen racks reaching upward containing the skeletons of the decease. It was very surreal seeing all these skeletons. Using forensics science and anthropology experts they were able to decipher the sex and approximate age of the skeletons. Very moving. Bone parts collected were also seen here.
A tree inside the grounds was marked as the killing tree where people's skulls were crushed then the bodies thrown into the pit. People have made the tree a memorial with stuffed teddy bears surrounding the base of the tree as well as ribbons or bracelets attached to the tree.
Other people were blindfolded before being shot in the back of the head. It is not a very nice place.
My thoughts are what was the west doing when this was happening in Cambodia.
It is back on the bus to return to Phnom Pehn for a set Cambodian lunch. For some reason my seat is marked with a yellow sticky marked no fish, even Janice has the same yellow sticky note.
The third stop was to the Toul Sleng Prison in Phnom Pehn, the main prison for the Khmer Rouge during their time in power. Here there are four main buildings, Building A was considered the torture building after which the prisoners are transferred to the Killing Fields.
Sam our guide mentioned that some days you may find survivors from this time here at the prison. Today was no exception. One elderly gentleman of 87 with dementia was here with a young man who acted as his translator. He was selling his book of the events which happened during his prison stay. Each couple bought a book.
A few steps away the family of a prison inmate who has died was selling a book as well. This individual travelled extensively around the world to tell his story. One more book bought by most of the couples.
Going into the cell blocks was depressing. Small cells with little light and no facilities. At least they have installed overhead fans for those visiting the prison which would not have been the case back then.
Before entering the third block there was a photo along a wall showing the Liberation Army with four children. I don't believe the children were clothed at the time. Two of these children were adopted by a German family while the other two children who were in fact brothers remained in Cambodia. This block included rows of numbered prisoners and their photographs of which all were eventually killed.
As we leave the third block there is a stall with two men and a young lady. These are the two brothers in the picture and the young lady is a daughter of one. Another book another sale.
It was a very emotional day for all of us especially Janice. She said when you think you are sad and depressed just take a moment and think about what happened here.
A quick visit to the National Museum and Russian Market completed the day.
Another prearranged Cambodian meal completed the day and evening. Janice and I need to expand our palate at some time in the future or should I say me.
I promise that tomorrow will be more uplifting as we visited Angkor Wat.
- comments
Dennis Baker I went on this tour and will never forget it.
Brenda Letain This was very interesting. Thank you for taking the time to write all the details. It's important to know what others have gone through. It's a lot to process having been there I'm sure.
Martin W Hi Dennis Yes it was very surreal, I too will not forget it.
Martin W Hi Brenda I needed to provide more information than I would generally provide in my blog. Thanks for your comments
Helen Worley Thanks for taking the time to relive your experience and share it. We must not forget. I was there a few years ago.