Day 8 Tuesday 15th September 2009

Johno says
A complete day of resting up poolside in preparation for the great Mount Kilimanjaro, for which I have upmost respect for and would like to say that is one mother of a mountain! Please read on... it is just a walk in the park... right?!

Evening was spent with a briefing from our Guide 'Emma' pronounced 'Eeem-ma' to make him not sound too much like a girl plus it was short for Emmanuel, he began to chat about what was in store for the next 6 days explaining the Rongai route up the mountain which started near the Kenyan border and the Marangu route down on the other side. He also said that it would be just us in our group on the climb plus ten (YES 10!!) assistants climbing with us!! (1 main guide, 1 assistant guide, 1 cook, 1 waiter and 6 porters to carry our tents, our main rucksacks, our dining room tent and table. our food and cooking equipment and of course, their own clothes and rucksacks - unbelievable!!

Day 9 Wednesday 16th September 2009
Stacey Says

Today we got picked up at 9am, and spent 4/5 hours driving to the Rongai gate, stopping at a cafe to eat our packed lunch, which was usually, bread roll, breast of chicken, boiled egg, samosa, peanuts, cake, banana, melon, and a carton of orange juice. We signed in and set off for our first hike, it was a nice scenic walk through the forest for 8km, very very dusty. The sun was blazing hot, but we were walking in and out of shade every so often so it was nice to cool down every so often. Carrying 3 litres of water and the general day things in my back pack, whilst the porters rushed ahead with the rest to set up camp for out arrival. Once arriving, (at 2625m altitude) late afternoon, they provide you with a bowl of water to wash your hands and face with, then serve up a 3 course dinner! with a choice of tea, coffee, milo for drinks. As soon as the sun went down, about 6.30pm, it was absolutwly freezing!! I had to get into my sleeping bag straight away, and it took me about an hour to warm back up again!! (although steve didn't seem to be affected too much!)

Day 10 Thursday 17th September 2009
Stacey says

Today wake up was at 7am, with a "Hello, hello, hell, tap tap tap, hello" in your best african accent! Had a wash with a bowl of water, and went to the dining tent for breakfast. Table set up with peanut butter, range of jams, butter, toast, choice of eggs, sausages, endlesss...! So once nicely stuffed, we set off on a 3/4 hour walk up to the next camp, 3410m up, the scenery changes every so often, so you have lots of nice things to look at whilst you are waling, its a nice hike, and its really quiet, you spot some odd wildlife every so often too. Once arriving to camp, we had lunch, and went for a rest in the tent for a nap. As soon as we got into the tent, it began to pour down with rain, really heavily. About 15 minutes later, there were porters around our tent hammering in the pegs of the tent, making sure we keep dry!! I couldn't believe they had came out just to do that for us. They work so so hard. Luckily after our snooze, the rain had stopped, and we got up and went for a walk over some rocks, then came back for dinner. Wanting to be in the tent and layered up for the sunset chill this time!!!! It all becomes a little systematic after a while. Sleep.. eat.. walk..

Day 11 Friday 18th September 2009
Johno says
Day 3 of our climb which was to be a 5 hour trek across moorlands and heaths from the second cave (3,410m) to the third cave (3,935m) on the mountain.
By this time, we were starting to get even colder as the sun went down at night. Basically we would drink water to stay hydrated, eat to top up on energy, put clothes on and off to keep warm, we were eating drinking climbing machines!! The altitude had not affected either of us yet at this point and the dusty water (from the mountain stream) was dustier than ever, civilisation seemed a long long way away!! Why did we do this?? The porters were as helpful as ever making it as comfortable as possible!!

Day 12 Saturday 19th September 2009
Johno says
Day 4 meant that we were just hours away from making the final ascent!! Agggh. We made our way from the third cave to Kibo camp (at 4,709m) which was known as the base camp for the final leg of the journey up this monster of a mountain (this is the point at which Abramovich who was climbing two weeks ago gave up) this proved to be quite a tough journey over 6 hours across highland desert with only dusty water to keep us going - we were starting to get asked if we were ok a bit more by now as many people suffer altitude sickness at this stage!!

We arrived tired at Kibo with yet another collection of smelly toilets which were effectively holes in the ground - this is the point when you thank your lucky stars at being a bloke, had dinner in our dining room tent then we made our way into our sleeping bags well before the sun went down for a bit of rest as we were setting off for the final ascent at midnight in good time to catch the sunrise at the summit!! Absolutely no sleep later we heard our human alarm clock speak through the tent opening to say it was time to get up and face the main event...

Day 13 Sunday 20th September 2009
Johno says
The main event....
For a note to myself when reading this back in years to come, this was the most painful day I have ever experienced, and i thought the half marathon was hard!!
We set off from Kibo in complete darkness wearing 3 t-shirts/thermals, 1 jumper, 1 fleece,1 water proof jacket, 3 trousers, 2 pairs of socks and my hiking boots - seriously it was minus 15 degrees but felt like minus 50, zig zagging up 60 degree slopes to 5,000 metres seemed like hard work then oxygen was at 20% and breathing was difficult. The guide did have oxygen with him but we were warned that anytime when our inevitable head ache or nausea becomne too much we would need to retreat back to Kibo. As we looked up we could see the top of the mountain, but for the next 2 hours climbing it just seemed like a never ending trail of steep slopes and rocks. THEN my headache became a bit more stronger and the legs were very tired and to be honest totally thought about giving up!! Emma said that we were around 45 minutes from reaching Gilman's Point at 5,681 metres which was the point at which you were awarded a certificate for reaching such a height. A lot of sweat and tears later, we reached the wooden sign that pointed out that you had made it to Gilman's point through the summit zone at 04:45 hrs - a total of around 5 hours from Kibo!! I couldn't believe that I had powered with no energy, very little dusty water that had literally frozen by then in our backpacks and climbing rocks and dust. Phew, I had tested my body to the limit, unable to gain my balance, head - heart - and strangely neck was pumping like mad at this point regrettably I was forced to make my way back down the mountain without fighting through the last 300 metres up to the actual highest point but hey I am here to tell the tale... believe me, I wanted to make it but the body just wouldn't allow it. All the way through the climb, everyone, the guides, other more exprienced climbers etc were telling us to listen to our body so I didn't have any choice but to say good luck to Stace and return down the mountain. Looking back there was absolutely no way i could have made it, i was dizzy and unbalanced all the way back down to 5,000 metres with climbers and guides kindly shaking my hand on the way through - very emotional!! Dirt ski-ing down the express route to Kibo, nausea certainly kicked in which just backed up my excuse to end the climb, painful next couple of hours downwards saw the sun rise through the clouds below which made it the experience worth while. At Kibo, paracetomals were awaiting us for a well deserved rest. Stace thankfully made it back and had reached the summit - absolutely amazing - she felt very tired but also said that the altitude didn't affect her at all. I must say, hats off, she done really well. This leads us into Monday without any sleep...

Stacey says

Summit Day

So Summit night!! I couldn't really get to sleep after dinner, we had about 4 hours to try and get some rest before beginning the hike to the peak. I was feeling nervous and excited, before I knew it, Emma was calling for us at 10.15pm to wake up with tea and biscuits. Gosh it was so so so so cold. I began to put on the layers, about 10 tops, a hoody, fleece and outer jacket, for the bottom half, thermal trousers, and two pairs of leggings, and the waterproof trousers, two socks, two gloves, the balaclava, my day bag, full of just sweets, peanuts and water. My toes were going numb waiting for the 4 of us to be prepared!! But we soon set up in the pitch dark with our torches. Emma was first, me, Steve behind and assistant guide at the back. Off we went, walking up hill at about a 60 degree incline. Soon warmed up once we were moving. I didn't have any idea of time, just concentrated on watching the guides feet, making sure I don't slip. He let us break at 5000m then again at 5200m, I was thinking, 'is that allllll???' I've been walking forever! But apart from being freezing cold, and having hunger strikes every so often I was feeling good to go still! Kept envisioning myself hugging the post at the top! So then I was wondering when the altitude problems were going to kick in, I was thinking if I get a headache now, I only have to put up with it for 3 hours I can do it. But we reached Gilmans point which was 5681m at 4.45am and I still felt good to go!! Steve had to pull out here, was feeling dizzy and didn't want to push it. So took a photo and had to move on pretty quick, we stood still a bit too long here, all my fingers and toes went numb and were stinging. so I spent the next 45 minutes just wiggling them trying to get feeling back! haha. It took my mind off the climbing for sure!!! It was difficult to try and drink or eat anything, because it was hard to breathe, and if you broke the pattern, you'd be really out of breath, but if you stopped to catch it you would feel the chill too much. But I was expecting the sun to rise any moment soon, and was looking forward to it warming up!! It was the most stunning sunrise I've ever seen, I stopped for a break to watch it, and got Emma to take some photos for me, I could only point and he would take my photo! haha. Then we passed some glaciers, which was spectacular to look at. Emma took some photos again for me :) It began to get light, and I could soon see the Uhuru sign in the distance, I picked up my pace, and just shot ahead to get to it. Absoulte relief, I got there for 6.30am. Emma and I had a little hug and took some photos. Then began the 2 and half hour decent. Slowly taking of layers, was so nice to feel hot again and was refreshing to drink my iced water!!! There was a pretty fun part coming down where you sort of ski down the dirt. But it got a bit strenuous on the legs!! Made it back to the KIbo base camp for around 9am, utterly relieved and absolutely exhausted. Only to be told I have two hours to rest and eat and begin a 10km hike down to a lower camp.

Day 14 Monday 21st September 2009
Johno says
No sleep at all meant we had to descend down the other side of the mountain to Horombo huts at 3,700 metres, this for both of us seemed like the longest journey of our lives, remebering that the only water available was the dusty mountain water. I think we both just collapsed into our sleeping bags for the next 10 or so hours... completely knackered.

Day 15 Tuesday 22nd September 2009
Johno says
The early rise at 6 o'clock meant that we had a 20km walk through rainforest to arrive for a shuttle bus back to our hotel which had taken another 45 minutes - all we could think about is a warm shower, dunk in the swimming pool and of course, goes without saying, a fresh bottle of cold Kilimanjaro beer!!

Day 16 Wednesday 23rd September 2009
Johno says
A restful day by the poolside shaking off the muscles strains before we set off for a 41 hour journey to Singapore leaving at 6 o'clock tomorrow morning which includes the emotional 9 hour bus to Nairobi, 6 hour wait at the airport, 4 hour flight to Jo'burg, 12 hour wait at Jo'burg then a 10 hour flight to Singapore. Bye for now....