Bizarrely we have a mini bus all to ourselves from Cameron Highlands to KL along some very windy roads and eventually to motorway. Dropped off close to the Chow Kit mono-rail station we immediately got lost walking around the complex ramadan markets that cover every bit of of pavement.

The hostel is on the fourth floor of a rather innocuous, almost derelict looking building. With only an A4 piece of paper sign to suggest you have the right place we were rather worried at what we would find. Out of the lift we're greeted with racks of shoes and a glass door with a chest high keypad. Buzzed through the door and into the air conditioned atmosphere of a clean no shoes hostel. Excellent.

In residence is Mr Jingga and Winnie the ginger tom and she cats. Characters who seemed most at ease slouched against the wall in the corridor watching the world go by. Kind of like Wayne and Waynetta Slob but without the chain smoking.

Wanting to relax we decided to catch the mono-rail and do a bit of shopping. Nothing special just a new mobile phone for me after my original phone was killed by the humidity on Fransipan in Vietnam. I didn't get a great deal but I did a phone that resembles a late '90s Nokia with a tiny colour screen.

That night we wander around the ramadan markets getting lost (again) in their tight warren like runs. Unable to see road signs its a labyrinth of blue tarpaulin, steel poles and wares from jeans to copies of the latest Ray Bans. The marketeers are very friendly and the stalls appear to be open 24 hours a day whilst ramadan is on (we didn't realise this but ramadan is always a month earlier each year so next year it will be July - got to feel sorry for any Icelandic Muslims who have only the smallest time between sunset and sunrise, if any, to break their fast). We try some chicken satay which comes with the tiniest morsels of skewered chicken in a plastic bag with some peanut sauce thrown in. Takeaway Malay style.

The next day we catch a bus to the Hindu temples at the Batu Caves. Outside the caves which are housed in a limestone monolith is a vulgar gold statue of Murugan a Hindu God. The statue is huge and is higher than the hundreds of steps which provide access to the temples. Monkeys acting like sentinels seem to guard the steps which once at the top give a great view of KL. The caves are very high and open up into a roofless cavern where the main temple area is. Tourists and Hindus alike are blessed inside the wall-less temple. Having seen quite a few temples on our travels our interest mainly lied with the resident march of monkeys who are intent on being fed.

That afternoon we venture to suburban KL to find a bouldering wall which turns out to be pretty good and enjoyable.

In the evening we eat at the local Indian restaurant. Contrary to what we expected in Malaysia a lot of the food is either Chinese or Indian or heavily influenced by (due to the large numbers of immigrants from those countries). Most of the traditional Malay food found is in the markets and consists of the skewered meat with satay sauce. On the one occasion we attempted to find traditional Malay food the restaurant was closed. We chanced upon some Malay food in a mall food court one day and ate beef rendang which was great. It is a shame this food wasn't more readily available.

The next day we arrived at the Petronas Towers at 8:15am for a trip to the bridge which joins them. We were too late and all of the daily 1,640 tickets had gone. With nothing else planned we did a little shopping and chilled out for the rest of the day.

Keen to make amends for yesterdays failure at the Petronas Towers we're there for 7:20 and queue for over an hour to get a ticket. They allocate times of the day when you can come back to go up. We pick the last slot of the day and head back to the hostel for more sleep.

At midday we venture out again, send some post home and then head off to a bus station to buy our ticket to Singapore. It takes forever to get there and realising we don't have time turn straight around and head to the towers. We arrive at the towers and peg it over the square in front of the buildings knowing we're late. The gentleman there seems happy to let us through after time but a stickler for the rules lady is apparently having none of it. After some discussion we get through and go up in the lift. Phew.

On our last night in KL we found out you can access the roof of the hostel for a view of the towers. The view is pretty good and definitely worth the climb up steel ladders with only a headtorch to illuminate the way.