After the relatively restful and relaxing time we'd had in Peru the past week were ready for some action. We'd heard really nice things abut Banos. Hot baths, great scenery and walks. We arrive having seen the smoking volcano on our way in. We step off the bus and turn round to see a mushroom cloud rising up over the hillside. Banos is about two or three miles from the volcano but the size of mushroom gave you the impression it was a lot closer than that. The hostel we are booked into is in a "safe zone" and we are told not to worry. We also make a mental note as to where the evacuation signs point to in the village if the alarm sounds.

We plan the next day to go walking up the hills around Banos and take in the scenery. However we wake up to find volcanic ash has covered Banos during the night and is still coming down and being whipped up by a fairly gusty wind. The streets are full of people in white breathing masks sweeping up the ash. There is a real sense of community about the effort.

The ash is fairly constricting. Constantly getting in your eyes making it difficult to see where you're going and obviously not great if inhaled. We quickly decide that trying to go walking is probably out of the question and take some photos before we seek refuge indoors.

The next day is pretty much the same. Even though the ash has stopped falling the wind is still gusting and mini ash storms fill the streets. The ash feels sharp and stings when a gust hits you in the face. We find a good website that gives us accurate info on what's happening and there is mention of a moderate risk of a big explosion. We feel nervous. http://www.sangay.com/ecuadorguide/ecuador/2011-volcano-news-ecuador-south-america/

The owners of the hostel offer to take us for a drive up the opposing hillside for a better view of the volcano. Their old but sturdy Renault takes us up a few hundred metres to what should be a great view but the wind had changed direction and was blowing the ash and regular clouds in our direction obscuring the spewing mountain. Where the wind direction helped was in carrying the sound generated. Pops and rumbles could clearly be heard from where we were, approximately five miles away.

When we get back to the hostel we head to the bus station for the first bus to Quito. "Get me out of here!"