Moving on from Lake Atitlan, our bumpy dusty road led us to Antigua, another pretty colonial city. The overwhelming number of American tourists and dollar pricing meant this stop would be brief. Up and out of bed with a sparrows fart, we traipsed our way to the near summit of an active volcano - Volcano Pacaya. The 90 minute hike was steep and hot, though it only grew hotter as we reached the lava flows. We looked down from our vantage point to see the orange lava on the move below and were surprised to realise our guide would take us up close and personal. Phill did what boys do best and stuck a stick into the molton hot stuff. What fun. Sue gingerly joined in though her Nike's soon started to feel the heat. Our S bend route took us north again, but not until a bolt of lightning had hit our McDonalds restaurant (no apologies, we are through with flour tortillas and frijoles) and sent a cup of boiling tea out of Phill's hands. We headed for the town of Coban. This necessitated a bus change in the notoriously dangerous Guatemala City. Our chicken bus emptied as we rattled through the city's streets. Our driver and conductor showed signs of concern as they flagged down a taxi to take us to our next bus. They both clambered out of their bus and ensured a safe transfer! We were really touched. From Coban, we enjoyed a full day excursion to rain forest, mineral pools and caves. Along route the scenary impressed us. Coffee tree plantations, orchid farms and sweet corn fields. These set precariously aside a steep rounded landscape. The highlight of the day was undoubtedly our trip into the caves. We were ordered to don soggy abandoned shoes, full of mud and stones. Sue opted for purple crushed velvet sneakers. We climbed up a rocky incline beside a waterfall, following our guide into cold brown murky waters and into a cave. Armed only with a candle each, soon we were out of our depth and swimming with our candles above our heads. Bats circled furiously above us as we headed ever deeper. We climbed slippery ladders, slid through gaps and clambered down rocks on ropes. It was real life Tomb Raider stuff. Bloody scary we might add. Pitch black with our candles snuffed, our guide switched on his headlamp - our opinion of these has now softened! After 30 minutes or so we reached a small gap. No candles, just our guide for comfort. We were pulled under a torrent of cold water and made to jump into a small alcove. The ferocious current took us safely into another cavern and we were led back to the dry resting place of our camera bag and half length candles. It was a blast. The day ended on rubber rings gliding down a fast moving river. We had missed the World Cup Final - deliberately! We took a mini bus shuttle 5 hours north to Tikal, the site of jungle engulfed Mayan ruins. We had the misfortune of being driven by an idiot 'C Ronaldo' look-alike who took pleasure in aiming his bus at stray dogs along the way. In one village a mother moved out of the way, leaving her puppy unaware of its fate. As you can imagine, we were furious. The driver didn't even flinch. Sue demanded he slow down and watch out, but the w*nker showed little interest. A large snake his next target. He even reversed up to show us the damage. We have now seen opposing sides of human nature in this crazed country. We leave for Belize tomorrow. PaS