Wow, Lima already

It's nearly the full monty, the 3.5 months in S.America are nearly up... How time has flown, and how time has been wonderfully slow and flexible. This is my last stop, being on the ocean that should probably be my last port of call. Since my last blog I've actually been to a lot of places and been on the move a lot too, however time has been 'lost' as well.

After Macchu Piccu (spelt correctly at last!) I took the overnight bus to Arequipa. This place appealed. It looks a bit like Cusco, some lovely buildings, the ever present main square called the Plaza de Armas with a cathedral on it (in this case it's very rare as it takes the full length of the road side it's on). I can't remember if I said how much the churches are laden here in S.America. Laden with cold gold guilt fixtures, as well as a real sense of guilt from the people and suffering and statues. They are not to my taste indoors usually, but this cathedral, while being huge had a simplicity to it that made it worth a visit. Being around the time of Corpus Christy also meant there were lots of religious festivals going on. However, I managed to miss a few of these. Not out of choice......

Upon arriving in Arequipa I was pleased and surprised to get a mail from 1 of the 2 Dan's who was also in town- he invited me to eat with him. He is now on his way to China so had to split from my group of boys. After an odd meal in a posh restaurant it was time for bed, fatigue in my case packing and an early start for Dan. Little did I know I'd be in bed 3 days with fod poisoning.... Thankfully for everyone else I had a private room with en suite and the toilet + sink were very close together...... I had simultaneous vomiting and diarreha for 16 hours non stop, liquid exiting both ends every 10 to 30 minutes...... Sleep was impossible. I was lucky the hostess visited having not seen me so my local African cure of bananas and coca cola were bought for me. This was seriously draining. I only surfaced after 3 days...... I hadn't eaten, slept fitfully and missed the sun!!! This also meant my plans for the last week were ruined due to inadequate time left. However, as in all things, there was good to come from this. Specifically the other Dan and Jules arrived. So instead of the last 2 weeks being alone I've had my lads looking after me and me them Dan wasn't well so it was up to me to drag Jules on a hike..... Not until we'd been introduced to the local carting though...... Petrol carts are fast, these were. UK carts are well maintained. Guess what these were????? No cart was the same, all handled in a pretty evil and unpredictable way causing many spins and crashes, all carts had their sides well and truly rammed, hand to hand contact was literal (a first for me...). All in all great fun....... Madness on the roads reflected on track. It confirmed my view that the Peruvians are the WORST drivers I've met on earth. Moronic, incapable, dangerous, unconcerned and inconsiderate..... Pedestrians have no rights and the horn is simply a permanent sound...Yuk!! To give an idea as to how bad they are- some idiot father took his baby on his lap in the cart and was merrily rammed by the local wide boy whom I would happily have punched as he thought this fun. So did the dad!! Given I'm a complete pacifist I think that says a lot

Trekking in the midday sun is a persuit (to quote) of mad dogs and englishmen. I think I was the mad dog, Jules the Australian equivalent.... We went to do 2 things- a 2 day trek in the Colca Canyon + see the condors. The canyon is now officially second deepest in the world, and more amazing as it's in Inca territory with seriously steep mountain sides going down 1200m (we walked 10+ km to do this) yet many covered in farmed Inca terraces. These guys were amazing in their technology and building techniques- not simply architecturally functional but also very beautiful and practical. A canyon as against a valley is much deeper and with steeper sides. It's a hard trek because of this. The last morning we were to see condors as they woke but had to leave the viewpoint early so disappointingly only saw 3, and these far away.... C'est la vie.

Then I was invited to join the guys (including Israeli Niv) for the rest of my trip. Given time changes and being told the town of Pisco was ruined in an earth quake, this I did. First stop was Nazca with only Dan. Look it up on Google. There are ancient lines in the desert there that no-one can explain of various huge figues (over 400 long easily most of them) They're only visible from the sky, in this case an even smaller plane than to Rurrenabaque... Five passengers, greater than 90 degree banking turns, small plane speed and the lines. Too fast to take photo's and see them I realised, if rather later than would have been wise. Two of 5 passengers unwell if not actually sick (that was another couple in my hostel) and yet a wonderful sight. If I was doing it again I'd simply look and buy the postcards though!! Nazca as a town is worth avoiding. Initially I was then alone in Ica and the guys 10 minutes away in Huacachina..... Ica is not worth it either! I arranged for us to do a wine tour as Ica is the centre of Peruvian wine production. A big disappointment. Argentina, Chile and even Bolivia have good wine. Not so Peru, not a good glass was found by me.... Then I joined the lads in Huacachina. A surfer dudes paradise. Massive sand dunes (tallest in the world out there) and an oasis. Sand boarding is what people come for.... There's also fast dune buggies on which to get a thrill (I missed out on that) and then climb (yes climb- steeper than the canyon even) a dune for the sandy sunset. Beautiful. Coming down was larffffff. Jules borrowed a sand board and we were to sit on it down together. It felt like looking over a sheer cliff prescipice.... A bit scary even for me- gulp. Down we went and off he fell Then as we cleared the sand I thought he was on the board so stood up.... you can guess the rest.... Niv chasing a sand board as it flew downhill alone, me laughing too much to be of use and the ludicrous nature of the day making for more fun.

The day after we went to Paracas. Allegedly the Poor Man's Gallapagos. I suggest the very very poor down and out's Gallapagos. Yes there were many sea birds and sea lions and Humboldt Penguins, but not much else..... Yes it was worh the cost, but not the name.

So now I am in Lima. Tonight I'm taking the boys out on a 'I want a really good seafood meal' splurge. Seems like a good idea, especially as I hope to go tandem paragliding tomorrow.... The restaurant is meant to be really good + posh so I've my last clean T shirt on..... And tomorrow night a flight to the UK, stay at my parents some 5 days before Biodanza in Italy 4 days and 2 days to wander with Julie. Eventually home last week of June and something called work 1st July......

Three and a half months travelling. It's an interesting thing travelling. It's so much more than the 2 weeks annual leave holiday. You are a different person, a different group. Travelling alone is hard- you meet people. Even I met people LOts of them. I have a few thoughts on my time here. I love travelling..... I want to do it again and aim to find a way.... Yet travelling is not easy. It's tiring. You don't settle. Living out of a back pack can be a pain if disorganised. I made it easier with single rooms and restaurant food. But you move on every 2- 3 days, see the sights, follow the gringo trail, what's next? Of the 2- 3 days everywhere 1 is lost as you plan the next step, what means of transport? Where to stay? To go alone? How much do you take out of the back pack? Is there time to hand wash clothes or even use a laundry? Can I wear these underwear another day? It IS hard work. But it's so so much more than that. You become part of a community. Invite yourself in. Feel the welcome. Join the group, for 10 minutes or 10 days or more.... It's how it is. You are a free agent. Tired? Stay a day longer. Ill, the schedule is changed. More to do? Stay longer. It's horrible- move on. The freedom and choice is amazing, liberating, real. The people you meet can also be fantastic. I've said it before but I have been blessed, lucky to meet those I've met. Friends for Life I cannot say, but friends for the moment most definately. Conversations and contacts from soul to soul. It's more open in so many ways, people are more open, vulnerable and yet caring. Strangers you meet 10 minutes can give more than neighbours or colleagues in a lifetime. It is a community, a way of life and I understand why people do it. I want to go on. I need it..... I love it So I will make it happen (no more new whisky or model cars I guess a happy sacrifice)

Travellers stick together out of compassion and the bond of the uniqueness of travel. Conversations varied, often where you've been or are going to, how long, what's good and bad.... and how are the bowels??? Younger ones (I was really the only one my age- neither young or old enough to easily fit yet still welcome- albeit getting a few odd looks in the younger party hostels!!!) also talking openly about sex in a way my generation (well in my experience anyway ) didn't. You also learn that some things don't change. Before travelling I only met 1 person who'd done it before- and she warned me to avoid groups of Israelis...... this still stands!! They are not popular with fellow travellers or locals, yet their sheer numbers mean most gringo haunts have an Israeli quarter where hostels and restaurants cater for them..... Americans have a similar but nowehere near as bad reputation, as do older groups of french people. Indeed the worst people I met were American tourist who were nice to me but awful to locals trying to survive in life- their intolerance and nasty attitude was demeaning of humaity. I also met and had a great time with some Israelis and Americans and French. Their common feature? They didn't want to be with their own countrfolk..... Says it all really.

I came here not to see the sights. That would be the bonus. I came here for me, in relation to the loss of Pauline and weaknesses I feel within about meeting people, being liked, being an equal. I have learnt so much. Gained so so much. Grieved and cried so much. I have changed. It may never be visible to others, but I feel it inside. I am happier, more content, relaxed, confident even. I am also grateful, very grateful for my life, for the courage to face my fears and make this happen. As well as the support of all back home in mails and comment as well as simply being there. And for those other special people I have met here, nameless here but not in my heart. I love faling in love, and think I fell in love with a few people here, and with life itself again.

And as they say all good things come to an end. But I've never believed that. You keep it inside. I don't feel negative about a return home. I have had so much pleasure from this trip I am simply happy to be. I always knew it would end, but I also know it is not over, not until I die. It's a life journey I embarked upon, and the UK is simply the next step in this for me. So I am content with this. It has been far better than I could ever have imagined.

You'll have to wit for the hpotos, I will upload many when home end of June, snakes and sunsets, sights and sounds (on video) to show some of wht I saw. I hope I've conveyed n my text some of the madness too, for that has been special...... Is special still

Now I must go to Loki, the party hostel to get the lads and go eat!!!

Ciao for now good people, love

Alan xxx