Lake Manyara, Tanzania - February 6, 2014

Evening of Feb. 4:

Before I get started for the update for the last two days, I need to document just a few random observances. For example, folks around here use the front-end of a motorcycle to serve as the tractor to a trailer hauling a big load. The load might be bananas, eggs, wood, etc. Next, they do not appreciate having their picture taken—who would?? On the other hand, if you ask their permission or chat with them, like most folks, they become very warm and friendly in just a minute or two. Many locals speak English. They frequently try to teach you their language - Swahili, here in Tanzania. As another point of interest, this is a destination for our donations of shoes and clothing items—these used items arrive here somehow and are sold in "shops" on the street under an umbrella or on a blanket on the walk. Most sidewalks are made of dirt. And here's a big one; the natural habitats of most African wild game (lions, elephants, giraffes, etc.) have been established as national parks or game reserves - you don't really have to worry about a lion jumping out at you from nowhere. Unless you are in their territory or are threatening them in some way, wild animals fear humans and prefer to keep to themselves in their own large spaces. And we haven't seen or heard a monkey yet!

Cute little yellow song birds are everywhere. Roosters crow all day long. Dogs bark all night long.

You cannot drink the water. If you do, your teeth might become brown and who knows what happens to your GI. The word, "Karibu" is written and said often here. It is not pronounced "Caribou." The accent is on the "ree" as in "kah-ree'-boo," and it means "you're welcome." "Jambo" (jahm-bo) must mean" hello." Everyone greeted us with this word. "Mambo" is more casual and means something like "Whasup?"

Many locals also attempted to teach us "hakuna matata!" We said, hey! We know this phrase! It's from the movie or musical, LIon King! They said, "Lion King???" Hakuna matata is not a made-up word. It is Swahili, and it means just what we were taught, "no problem, no worries!" Other Swahili words you might know from Tarzan movies are bwanna (mister), Mgambo! Mgambo! (urgent)-- just to name a few, I think.

Evening of Feb. 6:

Our perspective has surely matured in the last two days. What an understatement!! How to begin??? We have driven through the country-side, got a glimpse of everyday life in rural Tanzania, been exposed to fantastic, almost Biblical landscapes, witnessed unimaginable poverty coupled with unimaginable acceptance by the poor of their own destiny and plot in life. But monumental social and economic change and growth looms in the near future. The people know that what is today will no longer exist in due time. And all this is blanketed with the peoples' amazing good spirits, thankfulness and happiness. I find it difficult to take in and digest. . . . And then finally, we saw the magnificent animals! My mind is in a swirl and my head is spinning. I love this place. I know it will always have a deeply tender spot in my heart from this point on.

On Tuesday, we met our guide, Kevin. Kevin is 41, father to one son, a Safari guide for 16 years and a load of knowledge, fun and facts. Kevin drove us through the Gregory Rift Valley, the enormous, amazing piece of land that runs all the way from, Syria and Lebanon to Mozambique, to Lake Manyara, nature reserve for home of millions of flamingo and African wild game. He drives a Land Cruiser, heavily modified for African expeditions. He popped the top and gave us permission to stand on the seats to watch for game with no obstructions. Holy cow, it was slow at first but we learned to look and truly see. Some animals were easy to spot, like baboons; some things were more of a challenge, like Impala and elephants. By the end of the day, we saw Olive Baboons, Blue Monkeys, Vervet Monkeys (blue-balled monkeys), a herd of elephants - some with babies, single bull elephants, Waterbucks, Wart Hogs, Cape Buffalo and two male giraffes challenging each other on the shore of the lake. When the drive was done, Kevin drove us back in the direction we came but turned on a narrow dirt road muddied-up by a recent rain. We drove up and through a recently plowed field with turns, hills and watery gullies. Robed goat and cow herders could be seen driving their animals home just off the road and along the hillside. Almost suddenly we arrived at the gate of the Plantation Lodge. The contrast from outside to inside the gate was stunning. Try to imagine mud fields leading to a luxurious, yet simple collection of comfortable private lodges set spaciously among beautiful well-planned and well-tended grounds and gardens overlooking a great valley of plains and trees. As it turned out, the staff in this remote area was equally surprising. They were warm, gracious and attentive and the food throughout our stay was delicious! Maybe now, you see why my head is spinning.

Next day, we drove to Ngorongoro Crater Conservation Area. Ngorongoro is the largest unbroken, unfilled caldera in the world. It is 12 miles in diameter, rim is average 8000 feet above sea level and the floor is at 6000 feet. It is home to a large variety of animals. We passed small towns and Maasai Tribe settlements. The Maasai might be compared to Quakers or Mennonites at home. They live in close quarters of mud huts and stick to the old ways. Both men and women are recognized by their slender bodies, short hair or bald heads and dress of Maasai skirts and shoulder wraps of red or blue. Only adult men can wear red. Men among the Maasai often have multiple wives and many children. They raise cattle and goats but eat no wild meat. Traditionally their diet consists of meat from their goats or cattle, milk and blood of the cattle. Many are said to live to be over 100 years old. Very young Maassai children often can be seen tending the herds with long sticks and driving the livestock to and from fresh grasslands. This is important training for the kids because one day they will assume ownership over the herd. Money raised from sales of cattle and goats is their primary income. It is mostly used to pay for children's' education or to buy a wife. Maasai are known as great warriors, but yet are friendly, peaceful and proud people.

We drove through rainforests to arrive to top of the rim of Ngorongoro and down to the floor, up and down past gaps in forest where the early morning mist-covered floor could be seen. We drove past stunningly beautiful groves of acacia trees and grassy foothills to the plains-like floor. Our expert guide drove several hours through the sometimes very rough dirt trails down to the floor to see what we could find. It was a great day. We saw Ostriches and the giant-sized Eland, herds of Cape Buffalo, Wildebeest, Gazelles, Zebra and Gazelles. We saw African Elephants, some with babies, and we found a pride of lions that had just killed and were eating the carcass of a buffalo. Circling and waiting for their chance for a share were Jackals and Hyenas. Of course, we saw a variety of birds, cranes, storks, buzzards and hawks. Again, our heads are swimming. It's all too surreal.

Before beginning safaris, I imagined being driven out to an area via jeep then being carefully escorted via armed guard through the bushes on foot to view animals unaware our being there. We might even be wearing pith helmets. Actually though, we were driven to the areas where animals might be present, but we weren't allowed to get out of the car - these animals are dangerous, especially if disturbed or threatened. Even in some public areas, if you stop for a moment, windows and doors must remain closed to prevent baboons from getting in the car. If kites are nearby, you can't eat lunch outside. These birds will swoop down and steal your food before you can say boo!

I must talk about the lions. This was a pride of eight females and three males, brothers who had formed an alliance together for strength to protect and keep their females. The cats had taken down a buffalo only hours ago and were still feeding. At this point the mature cats were giving way to the younger ones. Although the females do the hunting, the males eat first, then the females have their turn. They allow the youngest of the pride to finally feed last on the leftovers. Once having eaten their fill, the cats could hardly walk, could hardly breathe and could only position themselves around the carcass to protect it from the scavenger Jackals and Hyena. Of course we stopped along with several other guide vehicles to observe. Everyone remained respectfully quiet and captured the moment silently with cameras from open-roof vantage points in the safari vehicles. The lions took little notice of us. A couple of the females slowly sauntered over to flop down heavily near the tires to take advantage of the cool earthen road and the bit of shade provided by the vehicle. The cats were so close to us the individual flies and ticks on their bellies, eyes and mouths could be seen. This could be one of the most amazing sights we have ever seen in all of our travels. We passed the area once again much later in the day - the lions were still there to guard what was left of their kill. Still gorged, the sated lions remained sleeping, some on their backs with bellies exposed with feet in the air.