The first thing we noticed about Mumbai was also its most emblematic feature: the traffic. Noticed is the wrong word. In fact, so is traffic. Rather I should say that an unruly, never ending organism of taxis, rickshaws, mopeds and cars enshrouded us in a …. cascade of beeping, hollering, swerving, overtaking and spitting as made our first jourmey from the airportt. Drivers seemed compelled to gain an extra inch, an extra second advantage over all other vehicle...