She was a character to be sure, with a plethora of experiences etched deep into her persona. We discussed the fact that smoking was permitted, for staff as well as customers. Even though she didn't speak a word of English, we gathered that a regime which banned smoking in bars would be an anathema to her. Since the bar (contrary to its nautical name) had a football theme, we ultimately resorted to simply naming great long lists of German footballers. Willy Hoeness, Gunter Netzer etc etc. We noted, with possible but regrettable schadenfreude, that the once legendary German striker, Gerhard Muller had become an alcoholic.